{"title":"Rhythmic Patterns of a Sandy Coast and Self-Organization of the Relief","authors":"I. O. Leont’yev","doi":"10.1134/s0001437024700267","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<h3 data-test=\"abstract-sub-heading\">Abstract</h3><p>The phenomenon of rhythmic patterns of the coastal-zone morphology (beach cusps, longshore sand waves, spits, and nearshore bars) is considered the result of self-organization of the relief when a positive feedback is established between sediment transport and morphology. It is shown that the dynamics of the contour and profile of the coast can be described in terms of the diffusion equation, which allows for both attenuation and growth of relief perturbations. The conditions are determined under which the self-organization mechanism is activated and the resulting perturbations grow over time. Rhythmic structures of the coastal contour are traditionally associated with waves propagating at a large angle relative to the coastal normal. However, it has been shown that the self-organization of beach cusps and megacusps also occurs in normal coast waves due to the development of circulation cells in the surf zone. The conclusion is substantiated that the formation of nearshore bars under certain conditions is also determined by the self-organization mechanism. The results obtained help to interpret the available observational data regarding the evolution of multiple bar systems.</p>","PeriodicalId":54692,"journal":{"name":"Oceanology","volume":"42 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.3000,"publicationDate":"2024-08-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Oceanology","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1134/s0001437024700267","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q4","JCRName":"OCEANOGRAPHY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Abstract
The phenomenon of rhythmic patterns of the coastal-zone morphology (beach cusps, longshore sand waves, spits, and nearshore bars) is considered the result of self-organization of the relief when a positive feedback is established between sediment transport and morphology. It is shown that the dynamics of the contour and profile of the coast can be described in terms of the diffusion equation, which allows for both attenuation and growth of relief perturbations. The conditions are determined under which the self-organization mechanism is activated and the resulting perturbations grow over time. Rhythmic structures of the coastal contour are traditionally associated with waves propagating at a large angle relative to the coastal normal. However, it has been shown that the self-organization of beach cusps and megacusps also occurs in normal coast waves due to the development of circulation cells in the surf zone. The conclusion is substantiated that the formation of nearshore bars under certain conditions is also determined by the self-organization mechanism. The results obtained help to interpret the available observational data regarding the evolution of multiple bar systems.
Abstract The phenomenon of rhythmic patterns of the coastal-zone morphology (beach cusps, longshore sand waves, spits, and nearshore bars) is considered the result of self-organization of the relief when a positive feedback is established between sediment transport and morphology.研究表明，海岸轮廓和剖面的动态可用扩散方程来描述，该方程允许地形扰动的衰减和增长。确定了自组织机制启动和由此产生的扰动随时间增长的条件。传统上，沿岸轮廓的韵律结构与相对于沿岸法线以大角度传播的波浪有关。然而，研究表明，在正常海岸波浪中，由于冲浪区循环单元的发展，也会出现滩尖和巨 穴的自组织现象。结论证明，在某些条件下，近岸条带的形成也是由自组织机制决定的。所获得的结果有助于解释有关多条带系统演变的现有观测数据。
期刊介绍：
Oceanology, founded in 1961, is the leading journal in all areas of the marine sciences. It publishes original papers in all fields of theoretical and experimental research in physical, chemical, biological, geological, and technical oceanology. The journal also offers reviews and information about conferences, symposia, cruises, and other events of interest to the oceanographic community.
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