Mentha piperita leaf extract suppresses the release of ATP from epidermal keratinocytes and reduces dermal thinning as well as wrinkle formation

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-07-25 DOI:10.1111/ics.12996

Yukiko Fujita, Kazal Boron Biswas, Yuka Kawai, Satoru Takayama, Teruaki Masutani, Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Kotaro Sakamoto

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Objectives

To achieve a more beautiful and younger appearance, reducing wrinkles is a key concern. The process of wrinkle formation is complex and the development of truly effective cosmetic ingredients to reduce wrinkles remains a challenge. Recent studies have revealed a close relationship between wrinkles and skin thinning, suggesting that preventing skin thinning could also prevent wrinkle formation. In this study, we examined the role of extracellular adenosine triphosphate (eATP) in the progression of thinning, as eATP reportedly increases skin ageing factors, such as senescence-associated secreted phenotype (SASP) factors in epidermal cells. We determined the effects of Mentha piperita leaf extract on suppressing eATP to reduce thinning and wrinkles.

Methods

Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels were measured in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) in the presence of M. piperita leaf extract. Dryness, high pH, and UVB radiation were used as extrinsic ageing factors. Intrinsic skin ageing was evaluated by comparing cells from adults (AD-NHEK) and newborns (NB-NHEK). A placebo-controlled in vivo study was carried out with a formulation containing 1% M. piperita leaf extract.

Results

The eATP levels were significantly higher in AD-NHEK compared with that in NB-NHEK cells. M. piperita leaf extract significantly decreased eATP levels in adult cells. Extrinsic ageing factors increased eATP levels in NHEK, whereas M. piperita leaf extract significantly suppressed eATP under all conditions. The active components of M. piperita leaf extract, luteolin glucuronide and rosmarinic acid, also decreased eATP. Moreover, compared with placebo lotion, M. piperita leaf extract-formulated lotion markedly increased dermal thickness and reduced wrinkles associated with crow's feet and the neck area.

Conclusion

We demonstrated for the first time that M. piperita leaf extract containing rosmarinic acid and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide has the potential to reduce eATP release from epidermal keratinocytes. An increase in eATP was observed not only during inflammation but also during natural ageing. Furthermore, the in vivo experiment revealing that 1% M. piperita leaf extract-containing lotion improved dermal thinning and wrinkles across multiple areas is attributed to the amelioration of dermal thinning. Thus, our data suggest the possibility of a novel cosmetic approach for reducing skin ageing by reducing eATP-mediated dermal thinning.

查看原文本刊更多论文

薄荷叶提取物能抑制表皮角质细胞释放 ATP，减少真皮层变薄和皱纹的形成。

目的：要想获得更美丽、更年轻的外表，减少皱纹是一个关键问题。皱纹的形成过程十分复杂，开发真正有效的化妆品成分来减少皱纹仍然是一项挑战。最近的研究显示，皱纹与皮肤变薄之间存在密切关系，这表明防止皮肤变薄也可以防止皱纹的形成。在这项研究中，我们研究了细胞外三磷酸腺苷（eATP）在皮肤变薄过程中的作用，因为据报道，eATP 会增加皮肤老化因子，如表皮细胞中的衰老相关分泌表型（SASP）因子。我们测定了薄荷叶提取物在抑制 eATP 以减少变薄和皱纹方面的效果：方法：在薄荷叶提取物存在的情况下，测量正常人表皮角质细胞（NHEK）中的三磷酸腺苷（ATP）水平。干燥、高 pH 值和 UVB 辐射被用作外在老化因素。通过比较成人细胞（AD-NHEK）和新生儿细胞（NB-NHEK），对皮肤内在老化进行了评估。使用含 1%蒌叶提取物的配方进行了安慰剂对照体内研究：结果：AD-NHEK细胞中的eATP水平明显高于NB-NHEK细胞。蒌叶提取物能明显降低成体细胞中的 eATP 水平。外在老化因素增加了 NHEK 中的 eATP 水平，而蒌叶提取物在所有条件下都能明显抑制 eATP。蒌叶提取物的活性成分--葡糖醛酸叶黄素和迷迭香酸也能降低 eATP。此外，与安慰剂乳液相比，胡椒叶提取物配制的乳液明显增加了真皮厚度，减少了与鱼尾纹和颈部相关的皱纹：我们首次证明了含有迷迭香酸和木犀草素-7-O-葡萄糖醛酸的蒌叶提取物具有减少表皮角质细胞释放 eATP 的潜力。不仅在炎症过程中，而且在自然老化过程中都能观察到 eATP 的增加。此外，体内实验显示，含 1%蒌蒿叶提取物的乳液可改善多个部位的真皮变薄和皱纹，这归因于真皮变薄的改善。因此，我们的数据表明，有可能通过减少 eATP 介导的真皮变薄来减少皮肤老化的新型美容方法。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.