Comprehensive Analysis of Gold Threads as Decor Elements in Medieval Textiles Using Electron and Ion Beams, and Energy-Dispersive X-Ray Analysis

IF 0.5 Q4 PHYSICS, CONDENSED MATTER

Journal of Surface Investigation: X-ray, Synchrotron and Neutron Techniques Pub Date : 2024-07-15 DOI:10.1134/S1027451024700174

E. A. Sozontov, E. A. Greshnikov, I. N. Trun’kin, I. I. Elkina

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Abstract

In the present study, we apply and further develop an interdisciplinary approach to investigate textile remnants of a 17th-century shirt discovered during archaeological excavations by the Institute of Archaeology, Russian Academy of Sciences (conducted in February 2021 under the direction of N.I. Savel’ev) in the former Goncharnaya Sloboda (Pottery Settlement area) of Moscow. When examining a fragment of the shirt with preserved decorative elements, we use a set of complementary analytical methods. The conducted research reveals that the shirt was sewn from linen fabric and bordered with woven silk ribbons. The spun golden threads used for embroidering decorative elements on the shirt are produced by twisting a core thread made of silver (with copper and gold additives) ribbon approximately 340 μm wide and 14 μm thick, with a layer of gold 1–1.5 μm thick applied to its surface. A silk thread is used as the core. A reconstruction of the method for manufacturing the metallic braided ribbon is carried out. High-resolution optical images of the spun gold threads are obtained, revealing their structure.

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利用电子束、离子束和能量色散 X 射线分析法全面分析中世纪纺织品中作为装饰元素的金线

摘要在本研究中，我们采用并进一步发展了一种跨学科方法，以研究俄罗斯科学院考古研究所在莫斯科前 Goncharnaya Sloboda（陶器聚落区）进行考古发掘（2021 年 2 月在 N.I. Savel'ev 的指导下进行）期间发现的一件 17 世纪衬衫的纺织残片。在研究一件保留有装饰元素的衬衫碎片时，我们使用了一套互补的分析方法。研究结果表明，这件衬衫是用亚麻织物缝制而成，并用丝绸织带镶边。用于在衬衫上刺绣装饰元素的纺金线是由银带（添加了铜和金添加剂）制成的芯线捻制而成的，银带宽约 340 微米，厚约 14 微米，表面敷有一层厚 1-1.5 微米的金箔。丝线用作芯线。对金属编织带的制造方法进行了重构。获得了金线的高分辨率光学图像，揭示了其结构。

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来源期刊

Journal of Surface Investigation: X-ray, Synchrotron and Neutron Techniques PHYSICS, CONDENSED MATTER-

CiteScore

0.90

自引率

25.00%

发文量

144

审稿时长

3-8 weeks

期刊介绍： Journal of Surface Investigation: X-ray, Synchrotron and Neutron Techniques publishes original articles on the topical problems of solid-state physics, materials science, experimental techniques, condensed media, nanostructures, surfaces of thin films, and phase boundaries: geometric and energetical structures of surfaces, the methods of computer simulations; physical and chemical properties and their changes upon radiation and other treatments; the methods of studies of films and surface layers of crystals (XRD, XPS, synchrotron radiation, neutron and electron diffraction, electron microscopic, scanning tunneling microscopic, atomic force microscopic studies, and other methods that provide data on the surfaces and thin films). Articles related to the methods and technics of structure studies are the focus of the journal. The journal accepts manuscripts of regular articles and reviews in English or Russian language from authors of all countries. All manuscripts are peer-reviewed.