Ocean wave directional distribution from GPS buoy observations off the west coast of Ireland: Assessment of a wavelet-based method

IF 1.9 4区 地球科学 Q2 ENGINEERING, OCEAN
Daniel Peláez-Zapata, V. Pakrashi, Frédéric Dias
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Abstract

Knowledge of the directional distribution of a wave field is crucial for a better understanding of complex air-sea interactions. However, the dynamic and unpredictable nature of ocean waves, combined with the limitations of existing measurement technologies and analysis techniques, make it difficult to obtain precise directional information, leading to a poor understanding of this important quantity. This study investigates the potential use of a wavelet-based method applied to GPS buoy observations as an alternative approach to the conventional methods for estimating the directional distribution of ocean waves. The results indicate that the wavelet-based estimations are consistently good when compared in the framework of widely used parameterisations for the directional distribution. The wavelet-based method presents advantages in comparison to the conventional methods, including being purely data-driven and not requiring any assumptions about the shape of the distribution. In addition, it was found that the wave directional distribution is narrower at the spectral peak and broadens asymmetrically at higher and lower scales, particularly sharply for frequencies below the peak. The directional spreading appears to be independent of the wave age across the entire range of frequencies, implying that the angular width of the directional spectrum is primarily controlled by nonlinear wave-wave interactions rather than by the wind forcing. These results support the use of the wavelet-based method as a practical alternative for the estimation of the wave directional distribution. In addition, this study highlights the need for continued innovation in the field of ocean wave measuring technologies and analysis techniques to improve our understanding of air-sea interactions.
爱尔兰西海岸全球定位系统浮标观测到的海浪方向分布:基于小波的方法评估
了解波场的方向分布对于更好地理解复杂的海气相互作用至关重要。然而,由于海洋波浪的动态性和不可预测性,加上现有测量技术和分析技术的局限性,很难获得精确的方向信息,导致对这一重要量的理解不深。本研究探讨了将基于小波的方法应用于 GPS 浮标观测的可能性,以此作为传统方法之外的另一种估算海浪方向分布的方法。结果表明,在广泛使用的方向分布参数框架内进行比较时,基于小波的估算结果一直很好。与传统方法相比,基于小波的方法具有优势,包括纯粹由数据驱动,不需要对分布的形状做任何假设。此外,研究还发现,波方向分布在频谱峰值处较窄小,在较高和较低尺度处不对称地扩大,特别是在峰值以下的频率处更为明显。在整个频率范围内,方向性扩展似乎与波龄无关,这意味着方向谱的角宽度主要受非线性波-波相互作用的控制,而不是受风强迫的控制。这些结果支持使用基于小波的方法作为估算波浪方向分布的实用替代方法。此外,这项研究还强调了在海洋波浪测量技术和分析技术领域继续创新的必要性,以提高我们对海气相互作用的理解。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
4.50
自引率
9.10%
发文量
135
审稿时长
3 months
期刊介绍: The Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology (JTECH) publishes research describing instrumentation and methods used in atmospheric and oceanic research, including remote sensing instruments; measurements, validation, and data analysis techniques from satellites, aircraft, balloons, and surface-based platforms; in situ instruments, measurements, and methods for data acquisition, analysis, and interpretation and assimilation in numerical models; and information systems and algorithms.
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