Optical evaluation of internal damage to human hair based on second near-infrared window polarization microscopy

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-05-27 DOI:10.1111/ics.12970

Tomonobu M. Watanabe, Seiko Ueda, Saki Ishida, Go Shioi, Junichi Kaneshiro, Michi Magari

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Abstract

Objective

Hair beauty treatments glorify human life. As a side effect, there is a risk of deteriorating the health of the hair. Optically polarized microscopy has been used for many decades to evaluate hair conditions owing to its ease of use and low operating costs. However, the low biopermeability of light hinders the observation of detailed structures inside hair. The aim of this study is to establish an evaluation technique of internal damages in a hair by utilizing a near-infrared (NIR) light with a wavelength of 1000–1600 nm, called “second NIR window”.

Methods

We built a laser scanning transmission microscope system with an indium gallium arsenide detector, a 1064 nm laser source, and optical circular polarization to visualize the anisotropy characterization of keratin fibres in hair. Samples of Asian black hair before and after bleaching, after permanent-waving, after lithium bromide (LiBr) treatment, and after heating was observed. Some parameters reflecting intra-hair damage were quantitatively compared with the parameters in digitally recorded images with analytical developments.

Results

The light transmittance of black hair was dramatically improved by utilizing the second NIR window. Numerical analysis of circular polarization in hair quantified the internal damage in chemically or thermally treated hair and found two different types of damage. The present method enabled quantitative evaluation of the condition changes in the cortex; for example, a decrease in circular polarizability by LiBr treatment and restoration by replacing the LiBr solution with water. In addition, black speckles were observed after the heat treatment. Longer heating and wetting times increased the appearance probability and size of the speckles. According to quantitative analyses, the emergence of black spots was independent of polarizability changes, indicating that they were not pores.

Conclusion

Circular polarization microscopy based on near-infrared optics in the second NIR window provides an effective evaluation method for quantifying intra-hair damage caused by cosmetic treatments. The present method provides noninvasive, easy, and inexpensive hair evaluation and has potential as a gold standard in hair care research/medical fields.

Abstract Image

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基于第二近红外窗口偏振显微镜的人类头发内部损伤光学评估。

目的：头发美容可以美化人类的生活。作为一种副作用，头发的健康有可能恶化。由于光学偏振显微镜使用方便、操作成本低，几十年来一直被用于评估头发状况。然而，光的生物渗透性较低，阻碍了对头发内部详细结构的观察。本研究的目的是利用波长为 1000-1600 纳米的近红外（NIR）光（称为 "第二近红外窗口"），建立一种评估头发内部损伤的技术：方法：我们建立了一个激光扫描透射显微镜系统，该系统配有砷化镓铟探测器、1064 nm 激光源和光学圆偏振，用于观察头发角蛋白纤维的各向异性特征。观察了漂白前后、烫染后、溴化锂（LiBr）处理后和加热后的亚洲人黑发样本。将反映头发内部损伤的一些参数与数字记录图像中的参数进行了定量比较，并进行了分析开发：结果：通过利用第二个近红外窗口，黑发的透光率显著提高。对头发圆偏振的数值分析量化了经过化学或热处理的头发的内部损伤，并发现了两种不同类型的损伤。本方法可定量评估头发皮质的状况变化，例如，硼酸处理会降低圆偏振率，而用水取代硼酸溶液则可恢复圆偏振率。此外，热处理后还观察到黑色斑点。较长的加热和润湿时间增加了斑点出现的概率和大小。根据定量分析，黑斑的出现与偏振率的变化无关，这表明黑斑不是孔隙：基于第二近红外窗口的近红外光学圆偏振显微镜为量化美容护理造成的头发内部损伤提供了一种有效的评估方法。本方法提供了一种无创、简便、廉价的头发评估方法，有望成为护发研究/医疗领域的黄金标准。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.