Towards a taxonomy for assessing and classifying the needs of curly hair: A mixed method, ethnographic and quantitative data study

Abstract

Hair defined as curly has an elliptical cross sectional area and unique 3D form. While the chemical, morphological and mechanical characteristics of such hair are being explored using a range of analytical techniques, hair assembly (head of hair) characteristics and individual behaviour are difficult to determine via tress-based instrumental and sensory testing. Since the demand for more efficacious and personalized products is expected to gain pace, this project sets the groundwork for developing a taxonomy for exploring and classifying curly hair needs from an individual's perspective. A mixed-method exploratory sequential design was used to gather information from people with curly hair starting with a novel in the field of cosmetics qualitative research method, Subjective Evidence-Based Ethnography (SEBE) (n = 14) and followed by an online survey (n = 212). The SEBE data analysis identified four common hair goals (aesthetic, haptic, practical and emotive) and a group of perceptions related to hair management routines. The survey explored the relationship of these hair goals with hair perceptions, hair esteem, hair characteristics and demographic variables. The findings suggest that hair goals and perceptions are stronger predictors of hair esteem than other characteristics such as hair length or curl type. Hence, a taxonomy for classifying curly hair should facilitate the development of more appropriate products, and product testing methods should incorporate such personal information in addition to objective fibre and hair assembly data. The focus of this study is on curly hair due to the lack of established methods for its objective evaluation and the personal challenges faced by people with curly and textured hair; however, the approach could be adopted to include straighter hair types.