First dye identification analyses conducted on textiles from Old Dongola (Sudan, 17th–18th centuries CE)

IF 1.5 3区地球科学 0 ARCHAEOLOGY

Archaeometry Pub Date : 2023-10-23 DOI:10.1111/arcm.12930

Magdalena M. Wozniak, Bartłomiej Witkowski, Tomasz Gierczak, Magdalena Biesaga

{"title":"First dye identification analyses conducted on textiles from Old Dongola (Sudan, 17th–18th centuries CE)","authors":"Magdalena M. Wozniak, Bartłomiej Witkowski, Tomasz Gierczak, Magdalena Biesaga","doi":"10.1111/arcm.12930","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"The Middle Nile Valley offers exceptional environmental conditions that allow the preservation of organic materials, including textiles. This paper presents the results of the analysis of 17 samples collected from wool, cotton, and silk textiles excavated in the ancient capital of Old Dongola from layers dated to the 17th and 18th centuries CE. Chemical analysis using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) have identified both plant and animal dyes. Locally produced textiles, mostly from wool and decorated with blue, green, orange, and yellow hues, were dyed with woad (Isatis tinctoria), flavonoid plants, and madder-type roots, which were already known and used by medieval dyers in that area. For the first time, kermes (Kermes vermilio) and lac-dye (Kerria species) have been also identified as a dye source in samples from this group. Imported fabrics, of cotton and silk, were dyed blue with woad (I. tinctoria) but also with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria); dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria) and kermes (K. vermilio) were other dyes identified in this second group. The results of this study provide the first dye identification for textiles produced in the 17th–18th c. Sudan and contribute new data to the research on textile production and trade in post-medieval Sudan.","PeriodicalId":8254,"journal":{"name":"Archaeometry","volume":"66 2","pages":"406-424"},"PeriodicalIF":1.5000,"publicationDate":"2023-10-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Archaeometry","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/arcm.12930","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"ARCHAEOLOGY","Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Abstract

The Middle Nile Valley offers exceptional environmental conditions that allow the preservation of organic materials, including textiles. This paper presents the results of the analysis of 17 samples collected from wool, cotton, and silk textiles excavated in the ancient capital of Old Dongola from layers dated to the 17th and 18th centuries CE. Chemical analysis using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) have identified both plant and animal dyes. Locally produced textiles, mostly from wool and decorated with blue, green, orange, and yellow hues, were dyed with woad (Isatis tinctoria), flavonoid plants, and madder-type roots, which were already known and used by medieval dyers in that area. For the first time, kermes (Kermes vermilio) and lac-dye (Kerria species) have been also identified as a dye source in samples from this group. Imported fabrics, of cotton and silk, were dyed blue with woad (I. tinctoria) but also with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria); dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria) and kermes (K. vermilio) were other dyes identified in this second group. The results of this study provide the first dye identification for textiles produced in the 17th–18th c. Sudan and contribute new data to the research on textile production and trade in post-medieval Sudan.

查看原文本刊更多论文

首次对老东戈拉（苏丹，公元 17-18 世纪）纺织品进行染料鉴定分析

尼罗河中游河谷提供了特殊的环境条件，使包括纺织品在内的有机材料得以保存。本文介绍了在古都老东戈拉出土的 17 件羊毛、棉花和丝绸纺织品样品的分析结果，这些样品来自公元 17 世纪和 18 世纪的地层。使用高效液相色谱法和质谱法（HPLC-MS/MS）进行的化学分析确定了植物和动物染料。当地生产的纺织品大多是用羊毛制成的，饰以蓝色、绿色、橙色和黄色，这些纺织品是用菘蓝（Isatis tinctoria）、黄酮类植物和茜草根染色的。在这组样本中，还首次发现了可米斯（Kermes vermilio）和漆染料（Kerria species）作为染料来源。进口的棉织物和丝织物被菘蓝（I. tinctoria）染成蓝色，也被靛蓝（Indigofera tinctoria）染成蓝色；染布帚（Genista tinctoria）和Kermes（K. vermilio）是第二组样本中发现的其他染料。这项研究结果首次对 17-18 世纪苏丹生产的纺织品进行了染料鉴定，为中世纪后苏丹的纺织品生产和贸易研究提供了新数据。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

求助全文

约1分钟内获得全文求助全文

来源期刊

Archaeometry 地学-地球科学综合

CiteScore

3.60

自引率

12.50%

发文量

105

审稿时长

6 months

期刊介绍： Archaeometry is an international research journal covering the application of the physical and biological sciences to archaeology, anthropology and art history. Topics covered include dating methods, artifact studies, mathematical methods, remote sensing techniques, conservation science, environmental reconstruction, biological anthropology and archaeological theory. Papers are expected to have a clear archaeological, anthropological or art historical context, be of the highest scientific standards, and to present data of international relevance. The journal is published on behalf of the Research Laboratory for Archaeology and the History of Art, Oxford University, in association with Gesellschaft für Naturwissenschaftliche Archäologie, ARCHAEOMETRIE, the Society for Archaeological Sciences (SAS), and Associazione Italian di Archeometria.