Ethnobotany of natural dyes of futus woven fabrics used by Dawan Tribe in North Central Timor Regency

Emilia Juliyanti Bria, Polikarpia Wilhelmina Bani, Dicky Frengky Hanas, Elinora Naikteas Bano, Yofrida Tefa
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Abstract

Futus is a term used by the Dawan people to refer to woven fabrics produced by the ikat technique which is applied in the yarn dyeing process. This woven cloth is one of the local pearls of wisdom passed down from generation to generation in the Dawan Tribe, North Central Timor District. The dyeing process is an important stage in the processing of woven fabrics that use plants as dyes. This study aims to reveal the types of natural coloring plants for woven fabrics, the plant organs used, and how they are processed. The semi-structured interview method was used in focus group discussions with 38 respondents who are weavers. This study revealed that there are 17 species from 12 plant families that are used as dyes for woven fabrics of the Dawan tribe in the North Central Timor District. Turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) is the most widely used plant. The part of the plant most used as a dye is the leaves, followed by rhizomes, roots, bark, fruit, and seeds. The processing of plants into dyes for woven fabrics consists of two ways, namely boiling and without boiling, each of which produces a different color with a different fixative mixture.
中帝汶岛北部大湾部落使用的梭织织物天然染料的民族植物学研究
Futus是大湾人使用的一个术语,指的是在纱线染色过程中应用ikat技术生产的机织物。这种编织布是在北中帝汶地区的大万部落代代相传的当地智慧珍珠之一。染色过程是植物染料机织物加工的一个重要阶段。本研究旨在揭示机织物天然着色植物的种类、所使用的植物器官及其加工过程。采用半结构化访谈法对38名织工进行焦点小组讨论。本研究发现,在北中帝汶地区的Dawan部落中,有12个植物科的17种植物被用作织物染料。姜黄(Curcuma longa L.)是应用最广泛的植物。植物中用作染料最多的部分是叶子,其次是根茎、根、树皮、果实和种子。将植物加工成机织物染料有煮沸和不煮沸两种方法,每种方法用不同的固定剂混合物产生不同的颜色。
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