modernité "orientale"

Agnieszka Kluczewska-Wójcik
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Abstract

Oriental influences present in Polish culture since the Middle Ages and incarnated by the idea of “sarmatisme” were re-evaluated or outright rejected by the young modernist generation. In fact, at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth century the traditional Polish “Orientality” was replaced by a wave of interest for the aesthetics of Islamic art, a reflection of the European “Oriental renaissance”. The Polish imaginarium had long associated the art and culture of Islam uniquely to the Middle East and its craft. The romantic epoch brought with it a new interest for medieval Spain, Granada in particular, its history and monuments, reflected in the poetry of Adam Mickiewicz and the museographic realisations of Izabela Czartoryska at Puławy or Tytus Działyński at Kórnik. If architectural projects, principally of “Moorish” synagogues and internal decorations for aristocratic and bourgeois palaces still belong to a nineteenth century oriental current, they do however already reveal a will typical of pre-war decades by virtue of granting significance to Islamic decorative principles. In the first decades of the twentieth century, “à l’orientale” motifs recurrent in fashion and the visual universe, as witnessed by contemporary novels, found a sort of counterpoint in propositions made by representatives of the Polish applied art revival movement, successful hybridization of European, oriental and popular models: fabrics, carpets, metal and leather objects of artists from the Warsztaty Krakowskie (Cracow workshops, founded 1913) such as Józef Czajkowski, Wojciech Jastrzębowski, Bonawentura Lenart, and Karol Tichy, “javano-cracovian” batiks of young workshop apprentices or even the glazed ceramics of Stanisław Jagmin. Displayed at the 1925 Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, the Cracow Workshop adherent’s productions draw the attention of the European public and critics on this peculiar breed of national “primitivist” style tainted with Orientalism. 
“东欧”现代性
自中世纪以来,波兰文化中存在的东方影响,以“萨尔马蒂斯”的思想为代表,被年轻的现代主义一代重新评估或彻底拒绝。事实上,在19世纪和20世纪之交,传统的波兰“东方主义”被一股对伊斯兰艺术美学的兴趣浪潮所取代,这是欧洲“东方文艺复兴”的反映。长期以来,波兰的想象力一直将伊斯兰教的艺术和文化与中东及其工艺联系在一起。浪漫时代给中世纪的西班牙带来了新的兴趣,尤其是格拉纳达,它的历史和纪念碑,反映在亚当·米奇维茨的诗歌和Izabela Czartoryska的博物馆实现(Puławy或Tytus Działyński) Kórnik。如果建筑项目,主要是“摩尔式”犹太教堂和贵族和资产阶级宫殿的内部装饰,仍然属于19世纪的东方潮流,但它们确实已经显示出战前几十年的典型意愿,因为它们赋予了伊斯兰装饰原则的重要性。在二十世纪的头几十年,“东方”主题在时尚和视觉世界中反复出现,正如当代小说所见证的那样,在波兰应用艺术复兴运动的代表所提出的主张中找到了一种对位,成功地混合了欧洲,东方和流行模式:来自华沙克拉科夫斯基(克拉科夫工作室,成立于1913年)艺术家的织物、地毯、金属和皮革物品,如Józef Czajkowski、Wojciech Jastrzębowski、Bonawentura Lenart和Karol Tichy,年轻工作室学徒的“爪哇-克拉科夫”蜡染,甚至Stanisław Jagmin的釉面陶瓷。在1925年巴黎现代装饰和工业艺术展览上,克拉科夫工作室的追随者的作品引起了欧洲公众和评论家对这种带有东方主义色彩的民族“原始主义”风格的注意。
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