Title page

Abstract

(2015) Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. Disclaimer The University of Gloucestershire has obtained warranties from all depositors as to their title in the material deposited and as to their right to deposit such material. The University of Gloucestershire makes no representation or warranties of commercial utility, title, or fitness for a particular purpose or any other warranty, express or implied in respect of any material deposited. The University of Gloucestershire makes no representation that the use of the materials will not infringe any patent, copyright, trademark or other property or proprietary rights. The University of Gloucestershire accepts no liability for any infringement of intellectual property rights in any material deposited but will remove such material from public view pending investigation in the event of an allegation of any such infringement. Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers Running head: Haemodynamic kinetics in elite rock climbers Abstract Currently the physiological mechanisms which allow elite level climbers to maintain intense isometric contractions for prolonged periods of time are unknown. Furthermore, it is unclear whether blood flow or muscle oxidative capacity best governs performance. This study aimed to determine the haemodynamic kinetics of two forearm flexor muscles in three ability groups of rock climbers. Thirty-eight male participants performed a sustained contraction at 40% of MVC until volitional fatigue. Oxygen saturation and blood flow was assessed using near infrared spectroscopy and Doppler ultrasound. Compared to control, intermediate and advanced groups, the elite climbers had a significantly (p< 0.05) higher strength-to-weight ratio (MVC/N), de-oxygenated the flexor digitorum profundus significantly (p< 0.05) more O2%·s-1 respectively). Furthermore, elite climbers de-oxygenated the flexor carpi radialis significantly (p< 0.05) more, and at a greater rate than the intermediate group (36.5 vs. 14.6% O2 and 0.43 vs. 0.1O2%·s-1 respectively). However, there were no significant differences in total forearm ∆ blood flow. An increased MVC/N is not associated with greater blood flow occlusion in elite climbers therefore, oxidative capacity may be more important for governing performance.