Scan to Pattern: How Body Scanning Can Help Transform Traditional Methods of Creating Pattern Blocks

Abstract

Body scanning provides one of the most efficient tools for recording information of the human body to support the development of body worn products. Traditionally the construction of garment patterns uses manual measurements and during the construction process applies some proportions, to create a pattern block [1], [2]. Traditional methods of drafting pattern blocks (slopers) apply very limited data from the body compared to the areas they cover and subsequently often require post drafting adjustments to achieve a suitable fit. Most pattern books have guidance on adjustments to blocks to accommodate figure variations [3]–[5]. These methods of block construction are well established and understood and have been used to inspire new approaches and propose theories for pattern block development [2], [6]. With advances in body scanning it is now possible to generate more measurements allowing for the body to have greater context in the process of pattern construction. This research retains the established 2D drafting methods and looks to explore further measurements than those traditionally used to create pattern blocks, these resulting blocks could then better reflect the individual variations in potential wearer size, shape and proportion. As well as looking to determine suitable measurements from a Size Stream (SS14) body scanner to inform the development of pattern blocks, this research tests an established skirt draft [4] using scan measurements, against a newly developed skirt drafting method which utilises the measurement capabilities of body scanning. The developed patterns are each tested on five dress forms. As well as assessing the resulting patterns, recommendations are made regarding how body scanning can be used to better inform pattern construction methods. This includes a contribution toward the theories of pattern construction, which will allow greater exploitation of body scanning technologies in developing better fitting and functioning garments. This research shows one means by which body scanning technologies can help to bridge the gap between traditional techniques of creating pattern blocks and the promising opportunities presented by body scanning technologies.