臭氧对牛仔布织物的水洗整理

T. Kamppuri, Shahriare Mahmood
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引用次数: 4

摘要

传统上,牛仔布有一个白色的棉纬和一个染色棉经纱与斜纹织物。通常,经纱是环染,染料集中在纱线表面,作为层,而不是扩散到纱线内部。这种现象在牛仔裤的不同整理处理中被利用,其目的是部分去除经纱表面的染料,以暴露纱线的较轻的核心。此外,整理处理用于去除上浆剂,使牛仔裤更柔软,更舒适。用浮石洗石的方法现在大多被纤维素酶处理所取代在酶处理过程中,洗涤滚筒中的机械作用、织物与织物之间的摩擦以及湿棉纤维最外层的轻微肿胀增加了棉纤维与酶的接近性,使染料得以去除,并使牛仔牛仔裤达到预期的褪色和软化。除纤维素酶外,漆酶还被研究用于靛蓝染色牛仔布的整理,发现它们在溶液和牛仔布上都能成功地降解靛蓝。4、5众所周知,牛仔织物在退浆和酶处理阶段,容易受到去除的靛蓝的影响。去除的靛蓝染料重新沉积在织物上,这会降低织物的外观,这被称为背染
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Finishing of denim fabrics with ozone in water
Traditionally, denim has a white cotton weft and a dyed cotton warp with twill weave. Usually, the warp yarn is ring dyed where the dye is concentrated, as layers, on the surface of the yarn rather than diffused inside of the yarn. This phenomenon is exploited in the different finishing treatments of jeans where the aim is to partially remove the dye from the surfaces of the warp yarns to expose the lighter core of the yarns. In addition, the finishing treatments are used to remove sizing agents and to make the jeans softer and more comfortable. The stone wash with pumice stones is nowadays mostly replaced by the treatment with cellulase enzymes.1 During the enzyme treatment, the mechanical action in the washing drum, fabric-fabric friction and slight swelling of the outermost layers of wet cotton fibres increased the accessibility of cotton to enzymes and allowed the removal of dyes and caused desired fading and softening of the denim jeans.2,3 In addition to cellulases, laccases have been studied in the finishing of indigo dyed denim fabrics and they were found to degrade indigo both in solution and on denim successfully.4,5 It is commonly known that the denim fabrics are prone to be affected by the removed indigo during the desizing and enzyme treatment phase. The removed indigo dye is redeposited on the fabric which diminishes the look of the fabric, and is known as backstaining.6–8
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