不仅仅是外表:日常生活中与衣服有关的气味管理

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
R. McQueen, Jennifer Kowton, L. Degenstein
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引用次数: 0

摘要

在恩特威斯尔(Entwistle)将服装视为“情境身体实践”和嗅觉印象管理的观点框架下,我们探讨了服装中的气味这一主题。通过8个焦点小组访谈,我们探讨了服装上的气味类型,服装或纺织品特性中突出气味的共性,以及控制、减少或避免气味在服装上积聚的气味管理措施。我们发现,许多不同来源的气味可以渗透到服装面料中,大多数气味都被认为是不愉快和不受欢迎的。来自身体的气味,尤其是来自汗水的气味,是最常被提及的气味来源。作为日常生活的一部分,每个人都要经历一系列独立的、相互关联的气味管理实践,以防止、控制或消除衣服上的气味。其中,洗衣服是最常见的做法。然而,个人也试图从源头上控制气味,使用“嗅测试”来评估气味,并积极避免某些已知持续有气味的衣服。我们还发现,气味管理包括逐步将有气味的衣服从一个人的“文明衣橱”转移到气味可能无关重要或气味不可避免的其他用途。很明显,在选择、穿着和护理衣服的具体实践中,气味是在社会中适当互动的标志。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
More than Just Appearance: Management of Clothing-Related Odor in Everyday Life
Abstract Framed within Entwistle’s perspective of dress as “situated bodily practice” and olfactory impression management, we explored the topic of odor in clothing. A series of eight focus group interviews were used to explore the types of odors that can adhere to clothing, commonalities among clothing or textile properties that accentuate odor, and odor management practices to control, reduce or avoid odor building up in clothing. We found that many different sources of odor can permeate clothing fabrics and most odors are deemed unpleasant and unwanted. Odors arising from the body, particularly from sweat, were the most commonly cited source of odor. As part of everyday routines, individuals undergo a series of separate and interconnected odor management practices to prevent, control, or eliminate odor in their clothing. Among these, laundering clothing was the most common practice. However, individuals also attempted to control odor at the source, using the “sniff test” to assess odor and actively avoid certain items of clothing known to be persistently odorous. We also found that odor management included a progressive delegation of odorous clothing from one’s “civilized wardrobe” to other uses where odor may not matter or odor was unavoidable. It is clear that part of the embodied practice of selecting, wearing and caring for clothing, odor acts as a sign for interacting appropriately within the social world.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.20
自引率
9.10%
发文量
14
期刊介绍: Fashion Practice fills this major gap by providing a much-needed forum for topics ranging from design theory to the impact of technology, economics and industry on fashion practice. Interdisciplinary and wide ranging, Fashion Practice addresses the entire business of fashion, including: innovation in fashion design and practice sustainability and ethics within the industry micro- and nano-technologies within the fashion context “smart” textiles and digital fashion materials, design, concepts and process fashion consumption and production from retail/e-tail to performance fashion new developments in fashion and clothing retail.
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