现实世界和虚拟世界的数字时尚创新

IF 1.9 Q3 BUSINESS
A. Sayem
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Computer-aided design (CAD) is among the first few digital elements entered into the fashion industry and education. There are many CAD systems for two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) design development that are being used in the industry today (Sayem, Kennon, & Clarke, 2010). Traditionally, the face-to-face teaching approach has been most effective for teaching these CAD software packages in academic set-ups. However, the COVID-19 pandemic forced us to move to a virtual mode of teaching across the world for the most of 2020 and 2021. Likewise, the tutors of fashion CAD had to adopt the new normal quickly and deliver the practical teaching elements of CAD over the online platforms, such as Zoom, MS Teams and Google Meet, etc. Lee (2021) looked into the effectiveness of online fashion CAD teaching in South Korea during the pandemic. They compared the grades and results of two groups of fashion CAD students: one group was taught 2D CAD systems offline in 2019, and the other group was taught the same systems online in 2020. Their finding is promising, and it shows that higher scores and grades were achieved by the online-taught students than the offline-taught cohorts. Although we do not have readily available similar studies from other countries to compare the finding, Lee’s (2021) study will give some confidence to the employers and educators about the knowledge and skills gained by students taught remotely during the pandemic. Pattern cutting is the first technical step in the apparel manufacturing process that starts materialising a design into a real wearable product in a set of technical drawings. In a mass production scenario, the pattern pieces of multiple sizes of same style of a garment are arranged into a rectangular area, known as a marker, matching the dimension of the cutting table and fabric width. The pattern cutting process, including marker making, is one of the most labour-intensive and least efficient processes in terms of waste generation within the fashion design and development cycle and is responsible for an average of fifteen percent fabric wastage (Ramkalaon and Sayem 2020). ElShishtawy, Sinha, and Bennell (2021) reviewed the works done on computational methods for the cutting problem and zero-waste design thinking. They highlighted the application of the CAD technique by Ramkalaon and Sayem (2020) and Weng and Kuo (2011) for zero-waste marker generation and stressed the importance of collaboration between the fields of cutting and packing (C&P) operational research and zero-waste fashion design (ZWFD). Being the first to cover the C&P and ZWFD research, the review article by ElShishtawy et al. (2021) provokes new research thinking among the academics and researchers in fashion and computer disciplines. The term ‘cyborg’, a portmanteau of cybernetic and organism, was first coined by Clynes and Kline (1960) to refer to an organism with enhanced capabilities through the integration of any artificial component or technology. Later, Haraway (1985) established the depiction of technology-dependent humanity as an existing version of a cyborg in her ‘Cyborg Manifesto’. The article by Särmäkari and Vänskä (2021) hosted in this special issue identified tomorrow’s fashion designers as cyborgs and it proposed a concept of ‘cyborg designer 4.0’, which refers to a physical and digital craftsperson, through the analysis from two case studies – one on generative clothing design involving machine learning and another on artificial intelligent (AI)-aided fashion sketching. They nicely echoed the footsteps of the blockchain technology, especially non-fungible tokens (NFTs), approaching towards the deisgn and development of digital-only garments as tradable assets, and provided an excellent food for thought for educators and industry leaders to figure out the construct of tomorrow’s fashion designers. Three-dimensional (3D) printing technology is a direct approach to converting a digital entity into a physical entity efficiently. Although this ‘digi-physi’ approach has been around for a fair amount of time, it has been more successful in designing and prototyping fashion accessories than in producing drape-able garments (Dip et al., 2020). Rolling (2021) looked into the designers’ perceptions of this technology and identified the efficient and inefficient","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":"483 1","pages":"139 - 141"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9000,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"23","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Digital fashion innovations for the real world and metaverse\",\"authors\":\"A. Sayem\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/17543266.2022.2071139\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"The aim of digitalising the fashion industry was to streamline the design, production and business of physical products for the real world and to achieve sustainability with the help of different digital tools. However, with the recent emergence of the metaverse, the parallel world in virtual reality, a new horizon of digital fashion has been opened. In general, the innovations in digital fashion can be clustered into the following four themes – (1) Digital design and e-prototyping, (2) Digital business and promotion, (3) Digital human and metaverse, and (4) Digital apparel and smart e-technology (Figure 1). This special issue presents eight research articles and two reviews covering the first two themes of digital fashion innovations – (1) Digital design and e-prototyping and (2) Digital business and promotion. Computer-aided design (CAD) is among the first few digital elements entered into the fashion industry and education. There are many CAD systems for two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) design development that are being used in the industry today (Sayem, Kennon, & Clarke, 2010). Traditionally, the face-to-face teaching approach has been most effective for teaching these CAD software packages in academic set-ups. However, the COVID-19 pandemic forced us to move to a virtual mode of teaching across the world for the most of 2020 and 2021. Likewise, the tutors of fashion CAD had to adopt the new normal quickly and deliver the practical teaching elements of CAD over the online platforms, such as Zoom, MS Teams and Google Meet, etc. Lee (2021) looked into the effectiveness of online fashion CAD teaching in South Korea during the pandemic. They compared the grades and results of two groups of fashion CAD students: one group was taught 2D CAD systems offline in 2019, and the other group was taught the same systems online in 2020. Their finding is promising, and it shows that higher scores and grades were achieved by the online-taught students than the offline-taught cohorts. Although we do not have readily available similar studies from other countries to compare the finding, Lee’s (2021) study will give some confidence to the employers and educators about the knowledge and skills gained by students taught remotely during the pandemic. Pattern cutting is the first technical step in the apparel manufacturing process that starts materialising a design into a real wearable product in a set of technical drawings. In a mass production scenario, the pattern pieces of multiple sizes of same style of a garment are arranged into a rectangular area, known as a marker, matching the dimension of the cutting table and fabric width. The pattern cutting process, including marker making, is one of the most labour-intensive and least efficient processes in terms of waste generation within the fashion design and development cycle and is responsible for an average of fifteen percent fabric wastage (Ramkalaon and Sayem 2020). ElShishtawy, Sinha, and Bennell (2021) reviewed the works done on computational methods for the cutting problem and zero-waste design thinking. They highlighted the application of the CAD technique by Ramkalaon and Sayem (2020) and Weng and Kuo (2011) for zero-waste marker generation and stressed the importance of collaboration between the fields of cutting and packing (C&P) operational research and zero-waste fashion design (ZWFD). Being the first to cover the C&P and ZWFD research, the review article by ElShishtawy et al. (2021) provokes new research thinking among the academics and researchers in fashion and computer disciplines. The term ‘cyborg’, a portmanteau of cybernetic and organism, was first coined by Clynes and Kline (1960) to refer to an organism with enhanced capabilities through the integration of any artificial component or technology. Later, Haraway (1985) established the depiction of technology-dependent humanity as an existing version of a cyborg in her ‘Cyborg Manifesto’. The article by Särmäkari and Vänskä (2021) hosted in this special issue identified tomorrow’s fashion designers as cyborgs and it proposed a concept of ‘cyborg designer 4.0’, which refers to a physical and digital craftsperson, through the analysis from two case studies – one on generative clothing design involving machine learning and another on artificial intelligent (AI)-aided fashion sketching. They nicely echoed the footsteps of the blockchain technology, especially non-fungible tokens (NFTs), approaching towards the deisgn and development of digital-only garments as tradable assets, and provided an excellent food for thought for educators and industry leaders to figure out the construct of tomorrow’s fashion designers. Three-dimensional (3D) printing technology is a direct approach to converting a digital entity into a physical entity efficiently. Although this ‘digi-physi’ approach has been around for a fair amount of time, it has been more successful in designing and prototyping fashion accessories than in producing drape-able garments (Dip et al., 2020). 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引用次数: 23

摘要

时尚产业数字化的目的是简化现实世界中实体产品的设计、生产和业务,并借助不同的数字工具实现可持续发展。然而,随着最近虚拟现实中的平行世界——虚拟世界的出现,数字时尚的新视野已经打开。一般来说,数字时尚的创新可以分为以下四个主题:(1)数字设计和电子原型,(2)数字商业和推广,(3)数字人类和虚拟世界,以及(4)数字服装和智能电子技术(图1)。本期特刊提供了八篇研究文章和两篇综述,涵盖了数字时尚创新的前两个主题(1)数字设计和电子原型和(2)数字商业和推广。计算机辅助设计(CAD)是最早进入时尚产业和教育的几个数字元素之一。目前有许多用于二维(2D)和三维(3D)设计开发的CAD系统正在行业中使用(Sayem, Kennon, & Clarke, 2010)。传统上,面对面的教学方法对于在学术设置中教授这些CAD软件包是最有效的。然而,2019冠状病毒病大流行迫使我们在2020年和2021年的大部分时间里在全球范围内采用虚拟教学模式。同样,时装CAD的导师们也必须迅速适应新常态,通过Zoom、MS Teams、Google Meet等在线平台,传递CAD的实践教学元素。Lee(2021)研究了疫情期间韩国在线时尚CAD教学的有效性。他们比较了两组时装CAD学生的成绩和结果:一组在2019年离线学习2D CAD系统,另一组在2020年在线学习相同的系统。他们的发现很有希望,它表明在线教学的学生比离线教学的学生取得了更高的分数和成绩。虽然我们没有其他国家的类似研究来比较这一发现,但Lee(2021)的研究将使雇主和教育工作者对大流行期间远程教学的学生获得的知识和技能有一定的信心。图案裁剪是服装制造过程中的第一个技术步骤,它开始将设计变成一套技术图纸中真正可穿戴的产品。在批量生产场景中,同一款服装的多个尺寸的图案片被排列成一个矩形区域,称为标记,与裁剪台的尺寸和织物宽度相匹配。就服装设计和开发周期中产生的废物而言,包括标记制作在内的图案切割过程是劳动强度最高、效率最低的过程之一,平均造成15%的织物浪费(Ramkalaon和Sayem 2020)。ElShishtawy, Sinha和Bennell(2021)回顾了关于切割问题和零浪费设计思维的计算方法所做的工作。他们强调了Ramkalaon和Sayem(2020)以及Weng和Kuo(2011)对CAD技术在零浪费标记生成中的应用,并强调了切割和包装(C&P)运运学和零浪费时装设计(ZWFD)领域之间合作的重要性。ElShishtawy等人(2021)的这篇综述文章首次报道了C&P和ZWFD的研究,在时尚和计算机学科的学者和研究人员中引发了新的研究思路。cyborg(半机械人)是cybernetic(控制论)和organism(有机体)的合成词,由Clynes和Kline(1960年)首次提出,指通过整合任何人工成分或技术而增强能力的有机体。后来,Haraway(1985)在她的“半机械人宣言”中将依赖技术的人类描述为半机械人的现有版本。Särmäkari和Vänskä(2021)在本期特刊中发表的文章将未来的时装设计师定义为半机械人,并提出了“半机械人设计师4.0”的概念,该概念指的是物理和数字工匠,通过对两个案例研究的分析-一个是涉及机器学习的生成服装设计,另一个是人工智能(AI)辅助时装草图。它们很好地呼应了区块链技术的脚步,尤其是不可替代代币(nft),将纯数字服装的设计和开发作为可交易资产,并为教育工作者和行业领导者提供了极好的思考食物,以找出未来时装设计师的结构。三维(3D)打印技术是一种将数字实体有效地转换为物理实体的直接方法。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Digital fashion innovations for the real world and metaverse
The aim of digitalising the fashion industry was to streamline the design, production and business of physical products for the real world and to achieve sustainability with the help of different digital tools. However, with the recent emergence of the metaverse, the parallel world in virtual reality, a new horizon of digital fashion has been opened. In general, the innovations in digital fashion can be clustered into the following four themes – (1) Digital design and e-prototyping, (2) Digital business and promotion, (3) Digital human and metaverse, and (4) Digital apparel and smart e-technology (Figure 1). This special issue presents eight research articles and two reviews covering the first two themes of digital fashion innovations – (1) Digital design and e-prototyping and (2) Digital business and promotion. Computer-aided design (CAD) is among the first few digital elements entered into the fashion industry and education. There are many CAD systems for two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) design development that are being used in the industry today (Sayem, Kennon, & Clarke, 2010). Traditionally, the face-to-face teaching approach has been most effective for teaching these CAD software packages in academic set-ups. However, the COVID-19 pandemic forced us to move to a virtual mode of teaching across the world for the most of 2020 and 2021. Likewise, the tutors of fashion CAD had to adopt the new normal quickly and deliver the practical teaching elements of CAD over the online platforms, such as Zoom, MS Teams and Google Meet, etc. Lee (2021) looked into the effectiveness of online fashion CAD teaching in South Korea during the pandemic. They compared the grades and results of two groups of fashion CAD students: one group was taught 2D CAD systems offline in 2019, and the other group was taught the same systems online in 2020. Their finding is promising, and it shows that higher scores and grades were achieved by the online-taught students than the offline-taught cohorts. Although we do not have readily available similar studies from other countries to compare the finding, Lee’s (2021) study will give some confidence to the employers and educators about the knowledge and skills gained by students taught remotely during the pandemic. Pattern cutting is the first technical step in the apparel manufacturing process that starts materialising a design into a real wearable product in a set of technical drawings. In a mass production scenario, the pattern pieces of multiple sizes of same style of a garment are arranged into a rectangular area, known as a marker, matching the dimension of the cutting table and fabric width. The pattern cutting process, including marker making, is one of the most labour-intensive and least efficient processes in terms of waste generation within the fashion design and development cycle and is responsible for an average of fifteen percent fabric wastage (Ramkalaon and Sayem 2020). ElShishtawy, Sinha, and Bennell (2021) reviewed the works done on computational methods for the cutting problem and zero-waste design thinking. They highlighted the application of the CAD technique by Ramkalaon and Sayem (2020) and Weng and Kuo (2011) for zero-waste marker generation and stressed the importance of collaboration between the fields of cutting and packing (C&P) operational research and zero-waste fashion design (ZWFD). Being the first to cover the C&P and ZWFD research, the review article by ElShishtawy et al. (2021) provokes new research thinking among the academics and researchers in fashion and computer disciplines. The term ‘cyborg’, a portmanteau of cybernetic and organism, was first coined by Clynes and Kline (1960) to refer to an organism with enhanced capabilities through the integration of any artificial component or technology. Later, Haraway (1985) established the depiction of technology-dependent humanity as an existing version of a cyborg in her ‘Cyborg Manifesto’. The article by Särmäkari and Vänskä (2021) hosted in this special issue identified tomorrow’s fashion designers as cyborgs and it proposed a concept of ‘cyborg designer 4.0’, which refers to a physical and digital craftsperson, through the analysis from two case studies – one on generative clothing design involving machine learning and another on artificial intelligent (AI)-aided fashion sketching. They nicely echoed the footsteps of the blockchain technology, especially non-fungible tokens (NFTs), approaching towards the deisgn and development of digital-only garments as tradable assets, and provided an excellent food for thought for educators and industry leaders to figure out the construct of tomorrow’s fashion designers. Three-dimensional (3D) printing technology is a direct approach to converting a digital entity into a physical entity efficiently. Although this ‘digi-physi’ approach has been around for a fair amount of time, it has been more successful in designing and prototyping fashion accessories than in producing drape-able garments (Dip et al., 2020). Rolling (2021) looked into the designers’ perceptions of this technology and identified the efficient and inefficient
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来源期刊
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education Arts and Humanities-Visual Arts and Performing Arts
CiteScore
3.10
自引率
0.00%
发文量
36
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