粉底和护肤功能的混合

Wataru Horie, Yukari Sakazaki
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引用次数: 0

摘要

粉底化妆产品通常会给人一种不愉快的干燥感。这被认为是由于缺乏保湿效果,在传统的非水配方和减少闭塞造成的皮脂吸收粉末。我们假设,在粉底上涂抹含水的层状相涂层可以改善保湿效果,缓解周围粉末对皮脂的吸收,并解决干燥的感觉。卵磷脂形成层状,与水一起膨胀,不受皮脂的影响。当粉末采用干法涂覆层状相时,涂层的均匀性不够。另一方面,使用挥发性溶剂的湿法工艺将粉末涂上层状相,得到均匀的涂层。涂层粉末与板层相减少皮脂吸收和增强闭塞通过体外测试验证。与传统的涂油粉底相比,涂层粉底的皮肤含水量更高。我们利用这一发现开发了一种新的粉底产品,在感觉测试中产生的干燥报告较少。此外,当水溶性活性成分被包裹在片层相的双层中时,这些物质进入角质层的通透性增加。因此,我们成功地开发了一种改进的粉底,通过使用片状涂层,以减少通常与传统粉底相关的干燥感,并改善护肤功能。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Hybrid of Powder Foundation and Skincare Function
Powder foundation make-up products often impart an unpleasant dry feeling. This is thought to be due to a lack of moisturizing effect in conventional non-aqueous formulations and reduced occlusion resulting from sebum absorption by powders. We hypothesized that applying a lamellar phase coating containing water to a powder foundation would improve moisturization and ease sebum absorption by the surrounding powder, and solve the dry feeling. Lecithin formed a lamellar phase that swelled with water and was not affected by sebum. When powders were coated with a lamellar phase using a dry process, the homogeneity of the coating was not sufficient. On the other hand, using a wet process with a volatile solvent to coat the powder with a lamellar phase resulted in a homogeneous coat. Coating powders with a lamellar phase reduced sebum absorption and enhanced occlusion verified through in vitro testing. Water content on skin to which a lamellar-coated powder foundation was applied was higher compared with that on skin to which a conventional oil-coated powder foundation was applied. We used this finding to develop a new foundation product that in feel testing yielded fewer reports of dryness. In addition, when water-soluble active ingredients were enclosed in a bilayer of a lamellar phase, permeability of these materials into the stratum corneum increased. Thus, we succeeded in developing an improved powder foundation through use of lamellar-coating to reducing the dry feeling commonly associated with traditional powder foundations and improve skincare function.
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