{"title":"海风驱动海洋的分析理论","authors":"Vladimir Zakharov","doi":"10.1016/j.piutam.2018.03.005","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>A self-sustained analytic theory of a wind-driven sea is presented. It is shown that the wave field can be separated into two ensembles: the Hasselmann sea that consists of long waves with frequency <em>ω < ω<sub>H</sub>, ω<sub>H</sub></em> ~ 4 − <em>5ω<sub>p</sub> (ω<sub>p</sub></em> is the frequency of the spectral peak), and the Phillips sea with shorter waves. In the Hasselmann sea, which contains up to 95 % of wave energy, a resonant nonlinear interaction dominates over generation of wave energy by wind. White-cap dissipation in the Hasselmann sea in negligibly small. The resonant interaction forms a flux of energy into the Phillips sea, which plays a role of a universal sink of energy. This theory is supported by massive numerical experiments and explains the majority of pertinent experimental facts accumulated in physical oceanography.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":74499,"journal":{"name":"Procedia IUTAM","volume":"26 ","pages":"Pages 43-58"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0000,"publicationDate":"2018-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1016/j.piutam.2018.03.005","citationCount":"19","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Analytic theory of a wind-driven sea\",\"authors\":\"Vladimir Zakharov\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.piutam.2018.03.005\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><p>A self-sustained analytic theory of a wind-driven sea is presented. It is shown that the wave field can be separated into two ensembles: the Hasselmann sea that consists of long waves with frequency <em>ω < ω<sub>H</sub>, ω<sub>H</sub></em> ~ 4 − <em>5ω<sub>p</sub> (ω<sub>p</sub></em> is the frequency of the spectral peak), and the Phillips sea with shorter waves. In the Hasselmann sea, which contains up to 95 % of wave energy, a resonant nonlinear interaction dominates over generation of wave energy by wind. White-cap dissipation in the Hasselmann sea in negligibly small. The resonant interaction forms a flux of energy into the Phillips sea, which plays a role of a universal sink of energy. This theory is supported by massive numerical experiments and explains the majority of pertinent experimental facts accumulated in physical oceanography.</p></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":74499,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Procedia IUTAM\",\"volume\":\"26 \",\"pages\":\"Pages 43-58\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.0000,\"publicationDate\":\"2018-01-01\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1016/j.piutam.2018.03.005\",\"citationCount\":\"19\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Procedia IUTAM\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2210983818300051\",\"RegionNum\":0,\"RegionCategory\":null,\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"\",\"JCRName\":\"\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Procedia IUTAM","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2210983818300051","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"","JCRName":"","Score":null,"Total":0}
A self-sustained analytic theory of a wind-driven sea is presented. It is shown that the wave field can be separated into two ensembles: the Hasselmann sea that consists of long waves with frequency ω < ωH, ωH ~ 4 − 5ωp (ωp is the frequency of the spectral peak), and the Phillips sea with shorter waves. In the Hasselmann sea, which contains up to 95 % of wave energy, a resonant nonlinear interaction dominates over generation of wave energy by wind. White-cap dissipation in the Hasselmann sea in negligibly small. The resonant interaction forms a flux of energy into the Phillips sea, which plays a role of a universal sink of energy. This theory is supported by massive numerical experiments and explains the majority of pertinent experimental facts accumulated in physical oceanography.