在线食品市场&本地的拜物教:叙事学的案例

Alexia Franzidis , Alana N. Seaman , Michele Abee
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引用次数: 0

摘要

在过去的50年里,连锁店和餐馆的同质化现象在美国最为明显,这引发了新地方主义的浪潮。新地方主义可以被视为大规模生产的赞歌,人们对“当地”和“正宗”商品和体验的兴趣和搜索不断增加,这些商品和体验往往建立在怀旧的观念之上。反过来,销售特定地点商品的公司,尤其是食品,最近变得非常受欢迎。提供此类产品的最成功的美国实体之一是Goldbeard。Goldbeard是一个“地区和手工食品的在线市场”,它将自己标榜为怀旧和当地食品成分的真正供应商,并将从中购买作为客户在行业不确定性时代支持当地酒店业(如餐馆、面包店等)的一种方式。这些数字食品市场在新地方主义时代的流行表明,消费者对“本地”的概念正在演变。因此,本研究旨在解构与数字空间中出售的食物相关的“本地”概念。它通过将受欢迎来源视为“标志性”和“经典”的餐厅与Goldbeard平台上代表同一地点销售的产品、餐厅描述、地点和营销图像进行比较来做到这一点。在这样做的过程中,它强调了现代社会中的“对当地食物的恋物癖”,并概述了叙事学的框架如何有助于探索讲述食物的故事如何影响个人如何感知当地食物。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Online food marketplaces & the fetishization of local: The case for narratology

The homogenization of place through chain stores and restaurants, most evident in the USA over the last 50 years, has spurred a wave of neolocalism. Neolocalism can be seen as an anthesis to mass production wherein there has been an increased interest in and search for ‘local’ and ‘authentic’ goods and experiences often built on notions of nostalgia. In turn, companies selling place-specific items, particularly food, have recently become extremely popular. One of the most successful American entities offering such products is Goldbelly. Goldbelly – an “online marketplace for regional and artisanal foods” - markets itself as an authentic purveyor of nostalgic and local food components and frames purchasing from them as a way for customers to support local hospitality businesses (e.g. restaurants, bakeries, etc.) in an era of industry uncertainty. The popularity of these digital food marketplaces in the age of neolocalism suggests that consumers' notion of ‘local’ is evolving. Thus, this study aims to deconstruct the idea of ‘local’ relative to food sold in a digital space. It does so by comparing eateries deemed ‘iconic’ and ‘classic’ by popular sources with the products, eatery descriptions, locations, and marketing images of items sold representing the same location on the Goldbelly platform. In doing so, it highlights the “fetishization of local” in modern society and outlines how the framework of narratology could be useful in exploring how the stories told about food might contribute to how individuals perceive local foods.

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