当代全球时尚市场中传统服饰的时尚发展历程

IF 3.3 Q2 BUSINESS

Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Pub Date : 2022-07-06 DOI:10.1080/20932685.2022.2085595

Handini Audita, B. Figueiredo, L. Gurrieri

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引用次数: 3

摘要

虽然传统服装对时尚产业有着重要的意义，但当代市场营销和时尚研究对传统服装设计的研究还不够深入。本文旨在通过对印尼kebaya的定性案例研究，探讨传统服饰的时尚发展过程。通过采访34位kebaya设计师和观察25位设计师的工作坊，我们确定了开发过程的四个关键阶段，包括文化参考、文化融合、共同采购和共同制作。考察这些阶段，可以看出传统服装设计师如何在适应全球时尚体系的同时保持传统服装的真实性。我们的研究结果还表明，时装设计师通过协调时尚发展过程中的活动来管理传统稳定性与时尚短暂性之间的紧张关系。

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The fashion development process for traditional costumes in the contemporary global fashion market

ABSTRACT Although traditional costumes are important to the fashion industry, marketing and fashion research has not thoroughly examined the design of traditional costumes in contemporary times. This paper aims to explore the fashion development process for traditional costumes through a qualitative case study of the Indonesian kebaya. By interviewing 34 kebaya designers and observing 25 designers’ workshops, we identify four critical stages of the development process, including cultural referencing, cultural amalgamation, co-sourcing, and co-producing. Examining these stages reveals how traditional costume designers maintain the authenticity of traditional costumes while adapting to the global fashion system. Our findings also show that fashion designers manage the tension between tradition stability and fashion ephemerality through harmonizing activities during the fashion development process.

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来源期刊

Journal of Global Fashion Marketing BUSINESS-

CiteScore

6.90

自引率

31.60%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal of Global Fashion Marketing is a quarterly journal that publishes peer-reviewed conceptual and empirical papers and business cases of original works that significantly contribute to the overall advancement of marketing theory, research, and practice in fashion, design, and culture. JGFM endeavors to be a “global bridge” connecting marketing scholars and practitioners in fashion, design, and culture throughout the world. We publish high-quality scholarly articles on marketing written by contributors representing the leading academic authors. As we state on the cover of every issue, our positioning statement, our value added to the marketing scholar readership, is truly to “Bridge Fashion and Marketing” 1. Monitor and analyze global fashion marketing trends. 2. Generate and integrate new ideas and theories related to fashion, luxury, and culture marketing theory and practice. 3. Apply new research methods and techniques in fashion, luxury, and culture marketing. 4. Explore and disseminate cutting edge fashion marketing practices. JGFM welcomes manuscripts that provide fresh, innovative insight to any topic in the field of fashion, luxury, and culture marketing. Both conceptual and empirical works are valued, so long as the manuscript addresses substantive issues in marketing.