在面霜和Blemish Balm霜中加入源自粗制棕榈油加氢处理的生物蜡的效果

IF 3.4 Q2 BIOCHEMISTRY & MOLECULAR BIOLOGY
Laura Aguilar, Jonathan Hernández, L. López-Giraldo, Ronald Mercado
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引用次数: 0

摘要

大多数用作化妆品成分的蜡都来自石化工业。这种复杂合成方法的现代替代方案是棕榈油的加氢处理;因此,本研究的目的是评估在面霜和BB霜中加入来自粗棕榈油加氢处理的生物蜡作为新的天然化妆品成分的效果。因此,开发了两种油包水(W/O)乳液,其中一种包括颜料,具有五种不同的重量百分比,并由经过培训的小组进行进一步的感官评估,以评估接受程度。此外,抗离心性、pH、铺展性、相分离、粘度和储能模量是使用热应力进行的初步稳定性研究中评估的参数。感官分析表明,在3%和9%(重量)的生物蜡之间获得了最高的接受水平。对于两种原型,增加生物蜡百分比会对粘性产生更大的影响,粘度增加,延展性降低。配方能够保持其pH值。BB霜的最佳稳定性为9%,因为性能变化很小。对于面霜,乳液在中等生物蜡含量下更稳定。观察到生物蜡作为润肤剂或增稠剂表现出良好的特性。最后,在9重量%的生物蜡中获得了具有最佳稳定性和感官特性的制剂。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Effect of Incorporating a Biowax Derived from Hydroprocessing of Crude Palm Oil in a Facial Cream and a Blemish Balm Cream
Most waxes used as cosmetic ingredients are derived from the petrochemical industry. A modern alternative to this complex synthesis approach is the hydrotreatment of palm oil; thus, the aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of incorporating a biowax derived from hydroprocessing of crude palm oil as a new natural cosmetic ingredient in facial cream and BB cream. Therefore, two water in oil (W/O) emulsions, one including pigments, with five different weight percentages were developed and subjected to further sensory evaluation by a trained panel to estimate the level of acceptance. Moreover, resistance to centrifugation, pH, spreadability, phase separation, viscosity and storage modulus were the parameters evaluated in a preliminary stability study using thermal stress. Sensory analysis showed that the highest level of acceptance was obtained between 3% and 9 wt% biowax. For both prototypes, increasing biowax percentage led to a greater effect on stickiness, the viscosity increased, and extensibility decreased. The formulations were able to maintain their pH. The best stability for BB cream was observed at 9%, since the changes in the properties were slight. For facial cream, the emulsion was more stable at intermediate biowax content. It was observed that biowax exhibits favorable characteristics as an emollient or thickening agent. Finally, the formulations with the best stability and sensory characteristics were obtained at 9 wt% biowax.
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来源期刊
Cosmetics
Cosmetics Medicine-Surgery
CiteScore
5.20
自引率
12.10%
发文量
108
审稿时长
8 weeks
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