普拉达减肥效应:当代时尚界的“号召文化”

IF 0.1 Q1 Arts and Humanities
Vanessa Gerrie
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引用次数: 4

摘要

在这个科技时代,时尚评论找到了一个新的民主平台,受到网络“号召文化”的影响,这是一种诞生于数字时代的文化现象。在以封闭著称的时尚界,独立的声音得到了关注,他们要求时装设计师、营销人员、编辑和所有中间的看门人,不仅要对抄袭的时尚产品负责,还要对出现在宣传活动和社论中的种族主义和偏执的挪用负责。在研究时尚产业中的“号召文化”时,本文将推断这些文化现象如何以及为什么与当代时尚产业相关,以及这对行业的未来意味着什么。我通过更广泛的背景来看待真实性和透明度的概念,社交媒体的影响,以及文化批评在时尚中的作用。本文采用的方法是对两个案例研究进行仔细分析,分别是独立时尚评论网站Diet Prada和The fashion Law,这两个网站在过去两年中都因其不偏不倚、毫不留情地指出时尚界的轻率行为而获得了关注。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
The Diet Prada effect: ‘Call-out culture’ in the contemporary fashionscape
Fashion criticism has found a new democratic platform in this technetronic age that has been impacted by the emergence of online ‘call-out culture’, a cultural phenomenon born of this digital age. Independent voices are finding traction within the famously hermetic fashion industry who are holding fashion designers, marketers, editors and all those gatekeepers in between, accountable not only for copycat fashion products but also for racist and bigoted appropriations that appear in campaigns and editorials. In examining ‘call-out culture’ in the fashion industry this article will extrapolate on how and why these cultural phenomena have gained traction in relation to the contemporary fashion industry and what this means for the future of the industry. I do so through the wider contextualization of looking at ideas of authenticity and transparency, effects of social media, and the role of cultural criticism in fashion. The methodology utilized in this article is in the form of the close analysis of two case studies, the independent fashion critic sites Diet Prada and The Fashion Law, which have both gained traction in the past two years for their unbiased and unrelenting agenda to call out fashion’s indiscretions.
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来源期刊
Clothing Cultures
Clothing Cultures HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
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