Geert R Verheyen, Tom Ooms, Liesbeth Vogels, Steven Vreysen, Ann Bovy, Sabine Van Miert, Filip Meersman
{"title":"昆虫作为化妆品油脂生产的替代来源。","authors":"Geert R Verheyen, Tom Ooms, Liesbeth Vogels, Steven Vreysen, Ann Bovy, Sabine Van Miert, Filip Meersman","doi":"","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fly (BSF) (<i>Hermetia illucens</i>), the locust (<i>Locusta migratoria</i>), and the house cricket (<i>Acheta domesticus</i>) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether. The fats were further refined, and the fatty acid composition and the acid value were determined. The fats were used in a hand cream formulation and compared with the currently used mink-and plant-derived oils. Fatty acid analysis indicates that BSF contains > 60% of lauric acid, which makes it less suitable for application in a skin-care product, whereas locust and cricket fats are rich in C16 and C18 fatty acids which makes them more suitable. Phospholipids and free fatty acid levels in the three insect species are relatively high compared with commercial, refined oils, and need to be removed by appropriate refining protocols. Odor and color also need to be removed by physical refinement to improve the applicability.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"69 3","pages":"187-202"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2018-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Insects as an Alternative Source for the Production of Fats for Cosmetics.\",\"authors\":\"Geert R Verheyen, Tom Ooms, Liesbeth Vogels, Steven Vreysen, Ann Bovy, Sabine Van Miert, Filip Meersman\",\"doi\":\"\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<p><p>Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fly (BSF) (<i>Hermetia illucens</i>), the locust (<i>Locusta migratoria</i>), and the house cricket (<i>Acheta domesticus</i>) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether. The fats were further refined, and the fatty acid composition and the acid value were determined. The fats were used in a hand cream formulation and compared with the currently used mink-and plant-derived oils. Fatty acid analysis indicates that BSF contains > 60% of lauric acid, which makes it less suitable for application in a skin-care product, whereas locust and cricket fats are rich in C16 and C18 fatty acids which makes them more suitable. Phospholipids and free fatty acid levels in the three insect species are relatively high compared with commercial, refined oils, and need to be removed by appropriate refining protocols. Odor and color also need to be removed by physical refinement to improve the applicability.</p>\",\"PeriodicalId\":15523,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Journal of cosmetic science\",\"volume\":\"69 3\",\"pages\":\"187-202\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.2000,\"publicationDate\":\"2018-05-01\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Journal of cosmetic science\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"3\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"医学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q4\",\"JCRName\":\"CHEMISTRY, APPLIED\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Journal of cosmetic science","FirstCategoryId":"3","ListUrlMain":"","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q4","JCRName":"CHEMISTRY, APPLIED","Score":null,"Total":0}
Insects as an Alternative Source for the Production of Fats for Cosmetics.
Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fly (BSF) (Hermetia illucens), the locust (Locusta migratoria), and the house cricket (Acheta domesticus) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether. The fats were further refined, and the fatty acid composition and the acid value were determined. The fats were used in a hand cream formulation and compared with the currently used mink-and plant-derived oils. Fatty acid analysis indicates that BSF contains > 60% of lauric acid, which makes it less suitable for application in a skin-care product, whereas locust and cricket fats are rich in C16 and C18 fatty acids which makes them more suitable. Phospholipids and free fatty acid levels in the three insect species are relatively high compared with commercial, refined oils, and need to be removed by appropriate refining protocols. Odor and color also need to be removed by physical refinement to improve the applicability.
期刊介绍:
The JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (JCS) publishes papers concerned with cosmetics, cosmetic products, fragrances, their formulation and their effects in skin care or in overall consumer well-being, as well as papers relating to the sciences underlying cosmetics, such as human skin physiology, color physics, physical chemistry of colloids and emulsions, or psychological effects of olfaction in humans. Papers of interest to the cosmetic industry and to the understanding of the cosmetic markets are also welcome for publication.