“多毛的下巴”:胡须和19世纪早期英国的男子气概。

IF 1.1 1区 历史学 Q1 HISTORY
Social History Pub Date : 2022-10-06 eCollection Date: 2022-01-01 DOI:10.1080/03071022.2022.2112863
Alun Withey
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引用次数: 0

摘要

对19世纪50年代维多利亚时代“胡须运动”的研究表明,胡须与男性气质、性别、性取向和现代观念的转变和关注之间存在密切联系。“胡须运动”通常被视为在150年的胡须消失后,胡须的回归。然而,在十九世纪之交,英国年轻男性中出现了一种新的、以前被忽视的蓄侧须时尚,这种时尚最初引起了争议和嘲笑,但逐渐被接受为一种男性服饰,并刺激了化妆品市场。19世纪初的“胡须运动”为人们提供了一种新的、更早的视角,将胡须作为一种体现男子气概的形式,并在当代关于男子气概、男性时尚和外表、性和柔弱、政治和革命关系的辩论中占有一席之地。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。

'Hairy honours of their chins': whiskers and masculinity in early nineteenth-century Britain.

'Hairy honours of their chins': whiskers and masculinity in early nineteenth-century Britain.

'Hairy honours of their chins': whiskers and masculinity in early nineteenth-century Britain.

'Hairy honours of their chins': whiskers and masculinity in early nineteenth-century Britain.

Studies of the Victorian 'beard movement' of the 1850s have demonstrated the close connections between facial hair and shifting ideas of, and concerns about, masculinity, gender, sexuality and modernity. The 'beard movement' is generally seen as the return of facial hair after 150 years of beardlessness. The turn of the nineteenth century, however, witnessed a new and previously overlooked fashion for side-whiskers among young British men, one that initially caused controversy and ridicule, but which gradually became acceptable as a male accoutrement, and spurred a market for cosmetic products. What might be termed the 'whiskers movement' of the early 1800s offers a new and earlier perspective on facial hair as a form of embodied masculinity, and its place in contemporary debates about manliness, male fashion and appearance, sexuality and effeminacy, and political and revolutionary affiliations.

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来源期刊
Social History
Social History HISTORY-
CiteScore
1.10
自引率
0.00%
发文量
37
期刊介绍: For more than thirty years, Social History has published scholarly work of consistently high quality, without restrictions of period or geography. Social History is now minded to develop further the scope of the journal in content and to seek further experiment in terms of format. The editorial object remains unchanged - to enable discussion, to provoke argument, and to create space for criticism and scholarship. In recent years the content of Social History has expanded to include a good deal more European and American work as well as, increasingly, work from and about Africa, South Asia and Latin America.
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