Maxime Duphil , Jérôme Lefèvre , Swen Jullien , Jean Roger , Pascal Dumas , Romain Le Gendre , Jérôme Aucan , Myriam Vendé-Leclerc , Martin Bénébig , Christophe Menkes
{"title":"西南太平洋新喀里多尼亚狭窄泻湖热带气旋期间珊瑚礁保护对风暴潮的作用","authors":"Maxime Duphil , Jérôme Lefèvre , Swen Jullien , Jean Roger , Pascal Dumas , Romain Le Gendre , Jérôme Aucan , Myriam Vendé-Leclerc , Martin Bénébig , Christophe Menkes","doi":"10.1016/j.csr.2025.105540","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Pacific islands are exposed to coastal hazards, particularly storm surges resulting from low pressure, extreme winds, and waves. While coral reefs naturally protect shorelines from incident waves, the diversity of reef geomorphologies induce various coastal responses, complicating hazard prediction based on offshore conditions. Understanding lagoon storm surge dynamics is therefore crucial for developing adaptation strategies to address global warming and sea-level rise. This study investigates the storm surge response of the narrow and shallow lagoon of Poe in New Caledonia using the SCHISM-SWAN coupled circulation-wave numerical model under tropical cyclone conditions. A retrospective of the 2019 cyclonic season shows that maximum storm surge is concentrated in the narrowest part of the lagoon, where human infrastructures are located, increasing exposure to extreme water levels. Modifying the reef structure to a more irregular form reveals that macro-scale reef features can mitigate wave setup intensity. Additionally, water depth variations over the reef crest significantly affect wave setup, with up to 30 % difference between high and low tides. A broader generalization based on 258 synthetic cyclone tracks highlights that within the lagoon, wave setup accounts for approximately 70 % of the storm surge, rising to 90 % during the most extreme event. These results showing that the wave contribution is essential for accurate storm surge prediction. The findings provide critical insights for improving coastal hazard assessment, land use planning, and resilience strategies in reef island environments facing climate change.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50618,"journal":{"name":"Continental Shelf Research","volume":"294 ","pages":"Article 105540"},"PeriodicalIF":2.2000,"publicationDate":"2025-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"The role of barrier reef protection to storm surge during tropical cyclones in a narrow lagoon, New Caledonia, south west Pacific\",\"authors\":\"Maxime Duphil , Jérôme Lefèvre , Swen Jullien , Jean Roger , Pascal Dumas , Romain Le Gendre , Jérôme Aucan , Myriam Vendé-Leclerc , Martin Bénébig , Christophe Menkes\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.csr.2025.105540\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><div>Pacific islands are exposed to coastal hazards, particularly storm surges resulting from low pressure, extreme winds, and waves. While coral reefs naturally protect shorelines from incident waves, the diversity of reef geomorphologies induce various coastal responses, complicating hazard prediction based on offshore conditions. Understanding lagoon storm surge dynamics is therefore crucial for developing adaptation strategies to address global warming and sea-level rise. This study investigates the storm surge response of the narrow and shallow lagoon of Poe in New Caledonia using the SCHISM-SWAN coupled circulation-wave numerical model under tropical cyclone conditions. A retrospective of the 2019 cyclonic season shows that maximum storm surge is concentrated in the narrowest part of the lagoon, where human infrastructures are located, increasing exposure to extreme water levels. Modifying the reef structure to a more irregular form reveals that macro-scale reef features can mitigate wave setup intensity. Additionally, water depth variations over the reef crest significantly affect wave setup, with up to 30 % difference between high and low tides. A broader generalization based on 258 synthetic cyclone tracks highlights that within the lagoon, wave setup accounts for approximately 70 % of the storm surge, rising to 90 % during the most extreme event. These results showing that the wave contribution is essential for accurate storm surge prediction. The findings provide critical insights for improving coastal hazard assessment, land use planning, and resilience strategies in reef island environments facing climate change.</div></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":50618,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Continental Shelf Research\",\"volume\":\"294 \",\"pages\":\"Article 105540\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":2.2000,\"publicationDate\":\"2025-08-07\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Continental Shelf Research\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"89\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0278434325001402\",\"RegionNum\":3,\"RegionCategory\":\"地球科学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"OCEANOGRAPHY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Continental Shelf Research","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0278434325001402","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"OCEANOGRAPHY","Score":null,"Total":0}
The role of barrier reef protection to storm surge during tropical cyclones in a narrow lagoon, New Caledonia, south west Pacific
Pacific islands are exposed to coastal hazards, particularly storm surges resulting from low pressure, extreme winds, and waves. While coral reefs naturally protect shorelines from incident waves, the diversity of reef geomorphologies induce various coastal responses, complicating hazard prediction based on offshore conditions. Understanding lagoon storm surge dynamics is therefore crucial for developing adaptation strategies to address global warming and sea-level rise. This study investigates the storm surge response of the narrow and shallow lagoon of Poe in New Caledonia using the SCHISM-SWAN coupled circulation-wave numerical model under tropical cyclone conditions. A retrospective of the 2019 cyclonic season shows that maximum storm surge is concentrated in the narrowest part of the lagoon, where human infrastructures are located, increasing exposure to extreme water levels. Modifying the reef structure to a more irregular form reveals that macro-scale reef features can mitigate wave setup intensity. Additionally, water depth variations over the reef crest significantly affect wave setup, with up to 30 % difference between high and low tides. A broader generalization based on 258 synthetic cyclone tracks highlights that within the lagoon, wave setup accounts for approximately 70 % of the storm surge, rising to 90 % during the most extreme event. These results showing that the wave contribution is essential for accurate storm surge prediction. The findings provide critical insights for improving coastal hazard assessment, land use planning, and resilience strategies in reef island environments facing climate change.
期刊介绍:
Continental Shelf Research publishes articles dealing with the biological, chemical, geological and physical oceanography of the shallow marine environment, from coastal and estuarine waters out to the shelf break. The continental shelf is a critical environment within the land-ocean continuum, and many processes, functions and problems in the continental shelf are driven by terrestrial inputs transported through the rivers and estuaries to the coastal and continental shelf areas. Manuscripts that deal with these topics must make a clear link to the continental shelf. Examples of research areas include:
Physical sedimentology and geomorphology
Geochemistry of the coastal ocean (inorganic and organic)
Marine environment and anthropogenic effects
Interaction of physical dynamics with natural and manmade shoreline features
Benthic, phytoplankton and zooplankton ecology
Coastal water and sediment quality, and ecosystem health
Benthic-pelagic coupling (physical and biogeochemical)
Interactions between physical dynamics (waves, currents, mixing, etc.) and biogeochemical cycles
Estuarine, coastal and shelf sea modelling and process studies.