Innovative Sorting for Sustainable Futures: Fiber Identification Technologies Tested in California to Drive Textile Circularity

Textiles is a growing waste stream ripe with opportunities for better materials management and promotion of businesses aligned with textile reuse and repair. The California Product Stewardship Council (CPSC) is leading textile policy development and textile recovery projects focused on expanding circular fiber systems with reduced cost burden on local government and taxpayers through extended producer engagement. Innovative fiber identification and pre-processing solutions are needed to enhance the efficiency and efficacy of Materials Recovery Facilities. Various textile scanning technologies are available on the market, with Near-Infrared Spectroscopy (NIR) emerging as the most promising and market-ready option due to its wide use in solid waste and recycling contexts. The article compares multiple NIR-based fiber identification devices tested in CPSC's recent pilot projects to provide a comprehensive overview of the current market landscape. The article discusses the potentials of handheld and tabletop devices in comparison to large-capacity machines, and challenges for accurate fiber identification due to the diverse nature of textile waste, including complex fabric blends, multi-layers, and the presence of disruptors such as prints, embroidery, and zippers. Industry-wide collaboration and the establishment of regulations and standards are required to overcome the current technical and economic challenges in textile circularity. The article will present recommendations for data collection, transparency, and accountability in the industry, and will discuss the role of policy development in creating economic incentives such as financial support, tax incentives, or subsidies for MRFs investing in state-of-the-art scanning solutions to expedite the transition toward more sustainable and efficient circular economy practices.