{"title":"谱波作用下岛礁形态动力响应的数值研究","authors":"Yu Yao , Yuting Song , Long Chen , Changshen Li","doi":"10.1016/j.csr.2025.105524","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Most existing studies reports that many low-lying reef atoll islands are vulnerable to the sea level rise and increased storminess in the context of global climate change. The positive adjustment of these reef islands to such extreme oceanographic conditions still needs to be further verified. In this study, the open-source XBeach numerical model using its phase-resolving nonhydrostatic module (XB-NH) combined with its morphodynamic module is adopted to investigate the morphodynamic response of reef islands under spectral waves. The model is firstly validated by two published datasets with and without the presence of sandy island located on the reef flat. The model is then applied to examine the effects of a series of incident wave forcing conditions (significant wave height, peak wave period, reef flat water depth) and island initial morphological features (island height, island top width, island beach slope, island location) on the morphodynamic evolution of reef island. Model applications show that two main morphodynamic responses: the elevated reef island crest and the lagoonward migration of the whole island are identified with larger waves and increased water level. One or two of such morphodynamic self-adjustment can be also found for smaller island with steeper beach slope located more closer to the reef edge. These insights highlight the necessity to consider the island morphological features in the coastal management of low-lying reef atoll nations to better resolve their future stability and persistence.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50618,"journal":{"name":"Continental Shelf Research","volume":"293 ","pages":"Article 105524"},"PeriodicalIF":2.1000,"publicationDate":"2025-07-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"A numerical study of the morphodynamic response of reef islands under spectral waves\",\"authors\":\"Yu Yao , Yuting Song , Long Chen , Changshen Li\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.csr.2025.105524\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><div>Most existing studies reports that many low-lying reef atoll islands are vulnerable to the sea level rise and increased storminess in the context of global climate change. The positive adjustment of these reef islands to such extreme oceanographic conditions still needs to be further verified. In this study, the open-source XBeach numerical model using its phase-resolving nonhydrostatic module (XB-NH) combined with its morphodynamic module is adopted to investigate the morphodynamic response of reef islands under spectral waves. The model is firstly validated by two published datasets with and without the presence of sandy island located on the reef flat. The model is then applied to examine the effects of a series of incident wave forcing conditions (significant wave height, peak wave period, reef flat water depth) and island initial morphological features (island height, island top width, island beach slope, island location) on the morphodynamic evolution of reef island. Model applications show that two main morphodynamic responses: the elevated reef island crest and the lagoonward migration of the whole island are identified with larger waves and increased water level. One or two of such morphodynamic self-adjustment can be also found for smaller island with steeper beach slope located more closer to the reef edge. These insights highlight the necessity to consider the island morphological features in the coastal management of low-lying reef atoll nations to better resolve their future stability and persistence.</div></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":50618,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Continental Shelf Research\",\"volume\":\"293 \",\"pages\":\"Article 105524\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":2.1000,\"publicationDate\":\"2025-07-11\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Continental Shelf Research\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"89\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0278434325001244\",\"RegionNum\":3,\"RegionCategory\":\"地球科学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"OCEANOGRAPHY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Continental Shelf Research","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0278434325001244","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"OCEANOGRAPHY","Score":null,"Total":0}
A numerical study of the morphodynamic response of reef islands under spectral waves
Most existing studies reports that many low-lying reef atoll islands are vulnerable to the sea level rise and increased storminess in the context of global climate change. The positive adjustment of these reef islands to such extreme oceanographic conditions still needs to be further verified. In this study, the open-source XBeach numerical model using its phase-resolving nonhydrostatic module (XB-NH) combined with its morphodynamic module is adopted to investigate the morphodynamic response of reef islands under spectral waves. The model is firstly validated by two published datasets with and without the presence of sandy island located on the reef flat. The model is then applied to examine the effects of a series of incident wave forcing conditions (significant wave height, peak wave period, reef flat water depth) and island initial morphological features (island height, island top width, island beach slope, island location) on the morphodynamic evolution of reef island. Model applications show that two main morphodynamic responses: the elevated reef island crest and the lagoonward migration of the whole island are identified with larger waves and increased water level. One or two of such morphodynamic self-adjustment can be also found for smaller island with steeper beach slope located more closer to the reef edge. These insights highlight the necessity to consider the island morphological features in the coastal management of low-lying reef atoll nations to better resolve their future stability and persistence.
期刊介绍:
Continental Shelf Research publishes articles dealing with the biological, chemical, geological and physical oceanography of the shallow marine environment, from coastal and estuarine waters out to the shelf break. The continental shelf is a critical environment within the land-ocean continuum, and many processes, functions and problems in the continental shelf are driven by terrestrial inputs transported through the rivers and estuaries to the coastal and continental shelf areas. Manuscripts that deal with these topics must make a clear link to the continental shelf. Examples of research areas include:
Physical sedimentology and geomorphology
Geochemistry of the coastal ocean (inorganic and organic)
Marine environment and anthropogenic effects
Interaction of physical dynamics with natural and manmade shoreline features
Benthic, phytoplankton and zooplankton ecology
Coastal water and sediment quality, and ecosystem health
Benthic-pelagic coupling (physical and biogeochemical)
Interactions between physical dynamics (waves, currents, mixing, etc.) and biogeochemical cycles
Estuarine, coastal and shelf sea modelling and process studies.