Pushpa Dissanayake , Johanna Amft , Philipp Sibbertsen
{"title":"确定石勒苏益格-荷尔斯泰因波罗的海沿岸的暴露指数","authors":"Pushpa Dissanayake , Johanna Amft , Philipp Sibbertsen","doi":"10.1016/j.margeo.2024.107382","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (<em>Skill</em> = 0.77 and <em>rmsd</em> = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (<em>R</em><sup><em>2</em></sup>: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernförde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":18229,"journal":{"name":"Marine Geology","volume":"476 ","pages":"Article 107382"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6000,"publicationDate":"2024-08-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Defining an exposure index along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea coast\",\"authors\":\"Pushpa Dissanayake , Johanna Amft , Philipp Sibbertsen\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.margeo.2024.107382\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><p>A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (<em>Skill</em> = 0.77 and <em>rmsd</em> = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (<em>R</em><sup><em>2</em></sup>: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernförde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.</p></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":18229,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Marine Geology\",\"volume\":\"476 \",\"pages\":\"Article 107382\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":2.6000,\"publicationDate\":\"2024-08-13\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Marine Geology\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"89\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S002532272400166X\",\"RegionNum\":3,\"RegionCategory\":\"地球科学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Marine Geology","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S002532272400166X","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
Defining an exposure index along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea coast
A wind exposure index (EI), which indicates the main physical driver of a coastal system, was developed along the Schleswig-Holstein Baltic Sea (SH) coast – Germany, to demonstrate the highly dynamic coastal stretches (i.e., potential erosion hotspots). The approach used three steps to define more accurate EIs. Initially, a representative wind year (RWY), which has similar physical characteristics as in the long-term data, was defined by analysing measured wind data from 2000 to 2019 at four stations distributed in the entire area of interest. The RWY was identified by a statistical comparison of wind speeds in 5 classes and 36 directional sectors between summer to summer yearly wind and the overall data. The selected RWY spanned from 01.09.2016 to 31.08.2017 and showed a reasonable agreement with the overall data (Skill = 0.77 and rmsd = 0.56 m/s). Next, high spatiotemporal nearshore hydrodynamics over the RWY were predicted using a model nesting approach of two domains in Delft3D. The predicted nearshore hydrodynamics indicated fair agreements with the measured data (R2: 0.87–0.90 for water levels and 0.75–0.86 for wave heights). Finally, the predicted water level and wave height time series in the nearshore area (∼ 5 m MSL depth) were used for the analysis of the EI adopting a 2-step procedure capturing short- and long-term correlations as well as seasonal long-range dependencies of the time series. This approach allows to model the clustering behaviour of extreme values of both parameters and provides reasonable EIs along the SH coast. The exposed areas display high EIs (e.g., 1 at the east of Fehmarn), while sheltered areas and bays have low values (e.g., 0 at Eckernförde Bay). The higher the EI the stronger the coastal dynamics and thus strong erosion can be expected. Interestingly, the EI varies considerably even along the exposed coastal stretches with long fetches, which indicates the sensitivity of the EI to the local morphology, which determines the nearshore hydrodynamics. Therefore, a definition of the EI based on nearshore hydrodynamics provides an accurate index of local physical drivers of a coastal system. The developed approach can be adopted to any coast, and provides useful information on the potential erosion areas for the coastal managers.
期刊介绍:
Marine Geology is the premier international journal on marine geological processes in the broadest sense. We seek papers that are comprehensive, interdisciplinary and synthetic that will be lasting contributions to the field. Although most papers are based on regional studies, they must demonstrate new findings of international significance. We accept papers on subjects as diverse as seafloor hydrothermal systems, beach dynamics, early diagenesis, microbiological studies in sediments, palaeoclimate studies and geophysical studies of the seabed. We encourage papers that address emerging new fields, for example the influence of anthropogenic processes on coastal/marine geology and coastal/marine geoarchaeology. We insist that the papers are concerned with the marine realm and that they deal with geology: with rocks, sediments, and physical and chemical processes affecting them. Papers should address scientific hypotheses: highly descriptive data compilations or papers that deal only with marine management and risk assessment should be submitted to other journals. Papers on laboratory or modelling studies must demonstrate direct relevance to marine processes or deposits. The primary criteria for acceptance of papers is that the science is of high quality, novel, significant, and of broad international interest.