{"title":"\"这不仅仅是服装的问题\":在 #RushTok 上时尚性别、种族和阶级","authors":"Maureen Lehto Brewster","doi":"10.1177/0887302x241244789","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"This manuscript analyzes outfit of the day (OOTD) content on TikTok to consider how the style-fashion-dress and social media practices in the digital sociality known as “RushTok” (re)produce gender, race, and class norms in Panhellenic sororities. I used feminist virtual ethnography to explore 97 OOTD videos produced during the 2022 Panhellenic sorority recruitment cycle. I followed the concept of the sorority girl around this data to map her emergence and effects in the RushTok sociality. I find that RushTok OOTDs remediate practices from traditional fashion media, and that the style-fashion-dress practices in this sociality emphasize luxury branding, highly feminine but conservative styles, and bodily discipline. These are (re)shaped by spatial and algorithmic logics, which privilege enactments of the sorority girl that (re)produce the White, wealthy, cisfeminine ideal. The logics of Panhellenic sororities intra-act with the TikTok algorithm to make this idealized sorority girl more visible, further (re)producing hierarchies of difference.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.4000,"publicationDate":"2024-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"“It's Not Just About the Outfits”: Fashioning Gender, Race, and Class on #RushTok\",\"authors\":\"Maureen Lehto Brewster\",\"doi\":\"10.1177/0887302x241244789\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"This manuscript analyzes outfit of the day (OOTD) content on TikTok to consider how the style-fashion-dress and social media practices in the digital sociality known as “RushTok” (re)produce gender, race, and class norms in Panhellenic sororities. I used feminist virtual ethnography to explore 97 OOTD videos produced during the 2022 Panhellenic sorority recruitment cycle. I followed the concept of the sorority girl around this data to map her emergence and effects in the RushTok sociality. I find that RushTok OOTDs remediate practices from traditional fashion media, and that the style-fashion-dress practices in this sociality emphasize luxury branding, highly feminine but conservative styles, and bodily discipline. These are (re)shaped by spatial and algorithmic logics, which privilege enactments of the sorority girl that (re)produce the White, wealthy, cisfeminine ideal. The logics of Panhellenic sororities intra-act with the TikTok algorithm to make this idealized sorority girl more visible, further (re)producing hierarchies of difference.\",\"PeriodicalId\":47110,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal\",\"volume\":null,\"pages\":null},\"PeriodicalIF\":2.4000,\"publicationDate\":\"2024-04-03\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"91\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x241244789\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"管理学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q3\",\"JCRName\":\"BUSINESS\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","FirstCategoryId":"91","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x241244789","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q3","JCRName":"BUSINESS","Score":null,"Total":0}
“It's Not Just About the Outfits”: Fashioning Gender, Race, and Class on #RushTok
This manuscript analyzes outfit of the day (OOTD) content on TikTok to consider how the style-fashion-dress and social media practices in the digital sociality known as “RushTok” (re)produce gender, race, and class norms in Panhellenic sororities. I used feminist virtual ethnography to explore 97 OOTD videos produced during the 2022 Panhellenic sorority recruitment cycle. I followed the concept of the sorority girl around this data to map her emergence and effects in the RushTok sociality. I find that RushTok OOTDs remediate practices from traditional fashion media, and that the style-fashion-dress practices in this sociality emphasize luxury branding, highly feminine but conservative styles, and bodily discipline. These are (re)shaped by spatial and algorithmic logics, which privilege enactments of the sorority girl that (re)produce the White, wealthy, cisfeminine ideal. The logics of Panhellenic sororities intra-act with the TikTok algorithm to make this idealized sorority girl more visible, further (re)producing hierarchies of difference.
期刊介绍:
Published quarterly, Clothing & Textiles Research Journal strives to strengthen the research base in clothing and textiles, facilitate scholarly interchange, demonstrate the interdisciplinary nature of the field, and inspire further research. CTRJ publishes articles in the following areas: •Textiles, fiber, and polymer science •Aesthetics and design •Consumer Theories and Behavior •Social and psychological aspects of dress or educational issues •Historic and cultural aspects of dress •International/retailing/merchandising management and industry analysis