Real Argentinian Food. Tensions and Conflicts in Value-Added Processes of Products to Commercialization and Tourism

Wine and dulce de leche (Caramel sauce) were recognised as cultural national food heritage in Argentina due to their importance in daily consumption and gastronomic identity. The formal recognition aligns with global food valorisation processes, such as the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization’s (UNESCO) immaterial heritage and the importance of gastronomic tourism. Also, public policies in different countries seek to add value to food and beverages in order to foster the development of rural areas, favour tourism commercialisation, strengthen local identities and enhance traditional/ancestral knowledge. These show the symbolic and economic value of food. In this context, several types of formal certifications and commodification processes, which recognise territorial anchorage, of how certain food is produced and consumed may lead to its standardisation, homogenisation or monopolisation, generating various tensions. Hence, we question the relationship between those who promote value-adding initiatives, how farm producer communities participate in them, which sectors or actors really benefit from these processes and what tensions may arise from them. We will address these questions by reconstructing and analysing the heritage and tourism valorisation of high-altitude wine in the Calchaquíes Valleys area and dulce de leche production in the province of Buenos Aires. © The Authors 2024