{"title":"现代早期的色彩驯化:葡萄牙的黑色羊毛染色","authors":"Luís Gonçalves Ferreira","doi":"10.3390/heritage7020042","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Mastering a colour—as such, its ‘domestication’—involves a weft of technological and symbolic relationships encompassed in the human ability to reproduce a visible colour using the techniques of textile dyeing. The Regimento dos panos or Regimento dos trapeiros (‘regulation of fabrics’ or ‘regulation of drapers’), published in 1573 and expanded in 1690, is a document made up of 107 chapters aiming to standardise the various stages of the production chain of woollen goods in Portugal. In the sections relating to the finishing of fabrics, the regulation carefully details the dyeing of the colour black. The main aim of this text is to discuss the four recipes presented in that document. The system presupposed a phase exogenous to the rules, since the fabrics had to be previously dyed blue (‘celestial blues’) by means of successive immersions of the cloth in a vat with indigo. The dyeing itself was achieved by mixing mordants and auxiliaries (alum, tartar, iron sulphate, and tannins) with a red dye (madder). The main conclusion is that the formulae presented do not constitute, in their general principles, a characteristic Portuguese methodology. In addition, the article includes an inventory of the raw materials used for dyeing in the Early Modern Age, produced, through a qualitative method, through cross-reference with other manuscript and printed sources, as well as an interpretation of their social and economic importance, and a systematisation of the types of Portuguese wools.","PeriodicalId":507444,"journal":{"name":"Heritage","volume":" 1125","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0000,"publicationDate":"2024-02-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Domesticating Colour in the Early Modern Age: Dyeing Wool in Black in Portugal\",\"authors\":\"Luís Gonçalves Ferreira\",\"doi\":\"10.3390/heritage7020042\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Mastering a colour—as such, its ‘domestication’—involves a weft of technological and symbolic relationships encompassed in the human ability to reproduce a visible colour using the techniques of textile dyeing. The Regimento dos panos or Regimento dos trapeiros (‘regulation of fabrics’ or ‘regulation of drapers’), published in 1573 and expanded in 1690, is a document made up of 107 chapters aiming to standardise the various stages of the production chain of woollen goods in Portugal. In the sections relating to the finishing of fabrics, the regulation carefully details the dyeing of the colour black. The main aim of this text is to discuss the four recipes presented in that document. The system presupposed a phase exogenous to the rules, since the fabrics had to be previously dyed blue (‘celestial blues’) by means of successive immersions of the cloth in a vat with indigo. The dyeing itself was achieved by mixing mordants and auxiliaries (alum, tartar, iron sulphate, and tannins) with a red dye (madder). The main conclusion is that the formulae presented do not constitute, in their general principles, a characteristic Portuguese methodology. In addition, the article includes an inventory of the raw materials used for dyeing in the Early Modern Age, produced, through a qualitative method, through cross-reference with other manuscript and printed sources, as well as an interpretation of their social and economic importance, and a systematisation of the types of Portuguese wools.\",\"PeriodicalId\":507444,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Heritage\",\"volume\":\" 1125\",\"pages\":\"\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.0000,\"publicationDate\":\"2024-02-10\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Heritage\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage7020042\",\"RegionNum\":0,\"RegionCategory\":null,\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"\",\"JCRName\":\"\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Heritage","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage7020042","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"","JCRName":"","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
摘要
掌握一种颜色--即其 "驯化"--涉及到人类利用纺织品染色技术复制可见颜色的能力所包含的技术和象征关系的纬线。Regimento dos panos 或 Regimento dos trapeiros("织物管理条例 "或 "窗帘管理条例")于 1573 年出版,1690 年扩充,是一份由 107 个章节组成的文件,旨在规范葡萄牙毛织品生产链的各个环节。在与织物整理有关的章节中,该规定仔细详述了黑色的染色。本文的主要目的是讨论该文件中提出的四种配方。该系统预设了一个规则之外的阶段,因为织物之前必须通过将布连续浸泡在靛蓝缸中的方法染成蓝色("天体蓝")。染色本身是通过将媒染剂和助剂(明矾、酒石、硫酸铁和单宁酸)与红色染料(茜草)混合来实现的。主要结论是,所介绍的配方在一般原则上并不构成葡萄牙特有的方法。此外,文章还通过定性方法,与其他手稿和印刷资料相互参照,编制了一份现代早期用于染色的原材料清单,对其社会和经济重要性进行了解释,并对葡萄牙羊毛的类型进行了系统化。
Domesticating Colour in the Early Modern Age: Dyeing Wool in Black in Portugal
Mastering a colour—as such, its ‘domestication’—involves a weft of technological and symbolic relationships encompassed in the human ability to reproduce a visible colour using the techniques of textile dyeing. The Regimento dos panos or Regimento dos trapeiros (‘regulation of fabrics’ or ‘regulation of drapers’), published in 1573 and expanded in 1690, is a document made up of 107 chapters aiming to standardise the various stages of the production chain of woollen goods in Portugal. In the sections relating to the finishing of fabrics, the regulation carefully details the dyeing of the colour black. The main aim of this text is to discuss the four recipes presented in that document. The system presupposed a phase exogenous to the rules, since the fabrics had to be previously dyed blue (‘celestial blues’) by means of successive immersions of the cloth in a vat with indigo. The dyeing itself was achieved by mixing mordants and auxiliaries (alum, tartar, iron sulphate, and tannins) with a red dye (madder). The main conclusion is that the formulae presented do not constitute, in their general principles, a characteristic Portuguese methodology. In addition, the article includes an inventory of the raw materials used for dyeing in the Early Modern Age, produced, through a qualitative method, through cross-reference with other manuscript and printed sources, as well as an interpretation of their social and economic importance, and a systematisation of the types of Portuguese wools.