Olivia M. Cheriton, Curt D. Storlazzi, Ferdinand K. J. Oberle, Kurt J. Rosenberger, Eric K. Brown
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Extreme low-frequency waves on the Ofu, American Samoa, reef flat
The southern fringing reef along Ofu, American Samoa, has been a focus of coral research owing to the presence of super-heated pools on the reef flat, where corals thrive in elevated sea temperatures. Here, we present the first documentation of exceptionally large low-frequency (periods > 100 s) waves over this reef flat. During a large, southerly swell event, low-frequency waves on the inner reef flat had mean heights of 0.7 m and periods of 2–4 min and are estimated to have contributed up to 50% of the total water levels. One observed low-frequency wave had a trough-to-peak vertical height of 1.5 m, possibly representing the largest low-frequency wave ever directly observed on a reef flat. These large, low-frequency waves, which were likely amplified by reef resonance, are important factors in coastal hazards such as flooding and erosion and may also be relevant to coral health and resilience.
期刊介绍:
Coral Reefs, the Journal of the International Coral Reef Society, presents multidisciplinary literature across the broad fields of reef studies, publishing analytical and theoretical papers on both modern and ancient reefs. These encourage the search for theories about reef structure and dynamics, and the use of experimentation, modeling, quantification and the applied sciences.
Coverage includes such subject areas as population dynamics; community ecology of reef organisms; energy and nutrient flows; biogeochemical cycles; physiology of calcification; reef responses to natural and anthropogenic influences; stress markers in reef organisms; behavioural ecology; sedimentology; diagenesis; reef structure and morphology; evolutionary ecology of the reef biota; palaeoceanography of coral reefs and coral islands; reef management and its underlying disciplines; molecular biology and genetics of coral; aetiology of disease in reef-related organisms; reef responses to global change, and more.