20世纪60年代韩国的新生活方式服装

Min-Jung Lee, Kyung-Mee Lee
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引用次数: 0

摘要

1961年5·16政变后,在强势政府的领导下,形成了“新生活服”的简化服装的社会氛围。当时的时装设计师对此做出了回应,设计了各种各样的新衣服。从1961年到1963年,韩国传统服装韩服如何与西方服装相妥协,进行了各种讨论。在此期间,前韩国服装设计师协会会长崔敬子通过时装表演提出了具有象征意义的新风格。其中一件被命名为“1960年代的新生walbok”,并于2022年被指定为国家登记文化遗产。在本研究中,总结了新生活服的概念,并分析了这些服装设计和呈现时的社会背景和讨论。此外,还发表了对“60年代新生书”文物及其文化价值的调查结果。本次研究调查了与《新生游记》和《崔景子》有关的文章、书籍、杂志、报纸等。杂志有《yewon》、《Yeosang》,报纸有《东亚日报》、《京乡新闻》、《朝鲜日报》、《中央日报》。20世纪60年代的《新生步法》是当时的设计师为响应政府的服装简化运动而开发并提出新设计的具体证据。这也是确保1956年首次成功本地化的毛织品“Goldentex”的历史性的遗物。这反映了20世纪60年代初为在韩服和西方时尚之间创造更合理的折衷而做出的努力。这是进入21世纪的趋势,也符合21世纪新韩服的变化方向。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
1960s New Lifestyle Dress in South Korea
After the May 16 coup in 1961, a social atmosphere was formed in which people to wear simplified clothes called Shinsaenghwalbok, meaning “new lifestyle clothing,” under the leadership of a strong government. The fashion designers of the time responded to this and designed various new clothes. From 1961 to 1963, various discussions on how hanbok, which is the traditional Korean clothes, should be improved by compromising with Western clothing. During this period, Choi Kyung-Ja, the former Korean Fashion Designers Association president, proposed symbolic new styles through fashion shows. One of them was named Shinsaenghwalbok of the 1960s and designated as a National Registered Cultural Property in 2022. In this study, the concept of Shinsaenghwalbok is summarized and the social background and discussions were analyzed when these clothes were designed and presented. And the results of a survey of ‘Shinsaenghwalbok of the 1960s’ artifact and its cultural value was presented. This study examined articles, books, magazines, and newspapers related to Shinsaenghwalbok and Kyung-Ja Choi. The magazines include Yeowon and Yeosang, and newspapers include Dong-A Ilbo, Kyunghyang Shinmun, Chosun Ilbo, and JoongAng Ilbo. Shinsaenghwalbok of the 1960s is tangible evidence that designers of the time developed and proposed new designs in response to the government’s movement to simplify clothing. It is also a relic that secures the historicity of the woolen fabric Goldentex, which was first successfully localized in 1956. This artifact reflects the effort to create a more reasonable compromise between hanbok and Western fashion in the early 1960s. It is a trend that has continued into the 21st century and is also in line with the direction of change of Shin-hanbok in the 21st century.
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