利用再利用和回收策略在科威特剧院服装设计

A. Dashti
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It aimed to investigate the attitudes \nand perceptions of Kuwaiti costumiers towards reusing and recycling as ways of reducing textile waste. \nIn keeping with Beveridge’s (1968) framework, this thesis utilised exploratory and participatory modes \nof primary research. Two different studies were conducted to gather primary data. First, a series of \nsemi-structured interviews were conducted with 13 UK and 13 Kuwaiti costumiers to elicit information \nand opinions on the costume design process and on sustainability. Second, three workshops were conducted \nwith three Kuwait costumiers. Each workshop comprised three different design tasks: Level 1- \nRedesigning; Level 2- Makeover of garments; and Level 3- Complete costume design from scratch. In \nthese tasks, Kuwaiti costumiers were asked to apply the different practices they employ when re-using \nand re-cycling and to discuss their attitudes towards such methods. 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In contrast, the key themes arising from the interviews with Kuwaiti costumiers were an \ninadequate understanding of costume design, a preference for purchasing new costumes, a lack of skills \nand knowledge regarding reuse and recycling, and costume skills required for storage. The findings \nfrom the workshops confirmed that the Kuwait costumiers had very limited knowledge of sustainable \npractices and, consequently, even less idea how to successfully apply them. However, they were enthusiastic \nand keen to learn more. The findings have thus shed new light on the discrepancies between \nthe UK and Kuwait in the adoption of such practices and the potential barriers that exist regarding the \nadoption of sustainable costume design practices in Kuwaiti theatre. 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引用次数: 0

摘要

科威特目前没有使用任何回收纺织品的方法(Alsuilaili等人,2014)。这一事实,加上高水平的纺织废料,导致了需要立即关注的重大生态问题(Alsuilaili et al., 2014)。因此,在戏剧服装设计和制作领域内再利用和回收材料非常重要(Jones et al., 2013)。然而,在科威特这样的国家,这种做法在伊拉克入侵之前是司空见惯的,现在已经不再是这种情况了(Al-Ghareb, 1988)。这项定性研究旨在调查科威特服装消费者的当前做法,然后将这些做法与英国服装消费者进行比较,后者提供了现有可持续(再利用和回收)服装设计实践的例子。它的目的是调查科威特服装消费者对重新使用和再循环作为减少纺织品废物的方法的态度和看法。为了与贝弗里奇(1968)的框架保持一致,本文采用了探索性和参与性的初级研究模式。为了收集原始数据,进行了两项不同的研究。首先,对13名英国和13名科威特服装客户进行了一系列半结构化访谈,以获取有关服装设计过程和可持续性的信息和意见。第二,与三名科威特服装供应商举办了三次讲习班。每个工作坊包括三个不同的设计任务:第一级-重新设计;第2级-服装改造;三级-从零开始完成服装设计。在这些任务中,要求科威特消费者采用他们在重新使用和再循环时采用的不同做法,并讨论他们对这些方法的态度。因此,这三种不同的任务由“说话和制作”组成。然后进行专题分析,以确定与可持续性3r相关的主要主题:减少,再利用,回收(Lyngaas, 2017;Rinkesh, 2018),以及科威特消费者坚持这些做法的程度。访谈的结果显示,两组消费者对可持续做法的态度存在相当大的差异。例如,从对英国服装消费者的采访中得出的关键主题是对服装设计的深刻理解,先进的技术技能和创造力,对再利用和回收的关注以及实现这些的技能和知识,以及长期储存技术的使用。与此相反,从对科威特服装消费者的采访中得出的主要主题是对服装设计了解不足,偏爱购买新服装,缺乏关于再使用和回收的技能和知识,以及储存所需的服装技能。讲习班的调查结果证实,科威特服装客户对可持续做法的了解非常有限,因此对如何成功地应用这些做法就更不了解了。然而,他们热情高涨,渴望了解更多。因此,研究结果揭示了英国和科威特在采用这种做法方面的差异,以及在科威特剧院采用可持续服装设计实践方面存在的潜在障碍。这将有助于为制定促进可持续服装设计思维和在科威特剧院制作服装时使用可重复使用和可回收材料的方法铺平道路。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Utilising Reuse and Recycling Strategies for Costume Design in Kuwait Theatre
Kuwait does not currently make use of any methods for recycling textiles (Alsuilaili et al., 2014). This fact, combined with high levels of textile waste, has resulted in significant ecological issues that demand immediate attention (Alsuilaili et al., 2014). Reusing and recycling materials within the realms of theatrical costume design and production is therefore extremely important (Jones et al., 2013). However, in nations such as Kuwait, where the practice was commonplace prior to the Iraqi invasion, this is no longer the case (Al-Ghareb, 1988). This qualitative study sought to investigate current practices among Kuwaiti costumiers and then compare these to UK costumiers who provide an example of existing sustainable (reusing and recycling) costume design practices. It aimed to investigate the attitudes and perceptions of Kuwaiti costumiers towards reusing and recycling as ways of reducing textile waste. In keeping with Beveridge’s (1968) framework, this thesis utilised exploratory and participatory modes of primary research. Two different studies were conducted to gather primary data. First, a series of semi-structured interviews were conducted with 13 UK and 13 Kuwaiti costumiers to elicit information and opinions on the costume design process and on sustainability. Second, three workshops were conducted with three Kuwait costumiers. Each workshop comprised three different design tasks: Level 1- Redesigning; Level 2- Makeover of garments; and Level 3- Complete costume design from scratch. In these tasks, Kuwaiti costumiers were asked to apply the different practices they employ when re-using and re-cycling and to discuss their attitudes towards such methods. The three different tasks therefore consisted of “talking and making”. A thematic analysis was then conducted to identify major themes related to the 3Rs of sustainability: reduce, reuse, recycle (Lyngaas, 2017; Rinkesh, 2018), and the extent to which Kuwaiti costumiers adhere to these practices. The findings from the interviews showed that there was considerable divergence between the two sets of costumiers in their attitudes towards sustainable practices. For instance, the key themes arising from the interviews from UK costumiers were a robust understanding of costume design, advanced technical skills and creativity, a focus on reuse and recycling and the skills and knowledge to implement these, and the use of long-term storage techniques. In contrast, the key themes arising from the interviews with Kuwaiti costumiers were an inadequate understanding of costume design, a preference for purchasing new costumes, a lack of skills and knowledge regarding reuse and recycling, and costume skills required for storage. The findings from the workshops confirmed that the Kuwait costumiers had very limited knowledge of sustainable practices and, consequently, even less idea how to successfully apply them. However, they were enthusiastic and keen to learn more. The findings have thus shed new light on the discrepancies between the UK and Kuwait in the adoption of such practices and the potential barriers that exist regarding the adoption of sustainable costume design practices in Kuwaiti theatre. This will help pave the way towards developing approaches to promote sustainable costume design thinking and the use of reusable and recyclable materials when making costumes in Kuwait theatre.
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