英国海军职员塞缪尔·佩皮斯(1660-1669)日记中的男性时尚与自我塑造

A. Stogova
{"title":"英国海军职员塞缪尔·佩皮斯(1660-1669)日记中的男性时尚与自我塑造","authors":"A. Stogova","doi":"10.32608/2307-8383-2022-30-237-296","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"In introducing the concept of self–fashioning, Stephen Greenblatt appealed to the idea of fashion and costume being able to turn the aristocrats of Renaissance England into a work of art. It is easy enough to draw parallels between fashion and self–fashioning when by \"fashionable\" we mean a type of costume and lifestyle that can become prestigious and popular for some period of time, which can be adopted and then abandoned in favour of a new one, thereby creating a certain public image for oneself. Early modern fashion is associated primarily with the court society. How could an official be fashionable when year after year he was dressed in a plain dark, usually black suit, which was appropriate for a townsman in the second half of the 17th century? This article explores how fashion and men's costume are represented in the diary of Samuel Pepys, a Navy official, who is called a man of fashion, and how, for him, costume could be a tool for shaping his identity.","PeriodicalId":397051,"journal":{"name":"Adam & Eve. Gender History Review","volume":"10 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0000,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Men’s Fashion and Self–Fashioning in The Diary of an English Navy Clerk Samuel Pepys (1660–1669)\",\"authors\":\"A. Stogova\",\"doi\":\"10.32608/2307-8383-2022-30-237-296\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"In introducing the concept of self–fashioning, Stephen Greenblatt appealed to the idea of fashion and costume being able to turn the aristocrats of Renaissance England into a work of art. It is easy enough to draw parallels between fashion and self–fashioning when by \\\"fashionable\\\" we mean a type of costume and lifestyle that can become prestigious and popular for some period of time, which can be adopted and then abandoned in favour of a new one, thereby creating a certain public image for oneself. Early modern fashion is associated primarily with the court society. How could an official be fashionable when year after year he was dressed in a plain dark, usually black suit, which was appropriate for a townsman in the second half of the 17th century? This article explores how fashion and men's costume are represented in the diary of Samuel Pepys, a Navy official, who is called a man of fashion, and how, for him, costume could be a tool for shaping his identity.\",\"PeriodicalId\":397051,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Adam & Eve. Gender History Review\",\"volume\":\"10 1\",\"pages\":\"0\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.0000,\"publicationDate\":\"1900-01-01\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Adam & Eve. Gender History Review\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.32608/2307-8383-2022-30-237-296\",\"RegionNum\":0,\"RegionCategory\":null,\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"\",\"JCRName\":\"\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Adam & Eve. Gender History Review","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.32608/2307-8383-2022-30-237-296","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"","JCRName":"","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0

摘要

在引入自我塑造的概念时,斯蒂芬·格林布拉特(Stephen Greenblatt)呼吁时尚和服装能够将英国文艺复兴时期的贵族变成艺术品。我们很容易把时尚和自我塑造联系起来,所谓“时尚”指的是一种服装和生活方式,这种服装和生活方式可以在一段时间内变得享有声望和流行,可以采用,然后放弃,转而采用新的,从而为自己创造某种公众形象。早期现代时尚主要与宫廷社会联系在一起。一位官员年复一年地穿着17世纪下半叶城里人穿的普通的深色(通常是黑色)西装,怎么可能赶时髦呢?本文探讨了被称为时尚之人的海军官员塞缪尔·佩皮斯(Samuel Pepys)的日记如何表现时尚和男性服装,以及对他来说,服装如何成为塑造他身份的工具。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Men’s Fashion and Self–Fashioning in The Diary of an English Navy Clerk Samuel Pepys (1660–1669)
In introducing the concept of self–fashioning, Stephen Greenblatt appealed to the idea of fashion and costume being able to turn the aristocrats of Renaissance England into a work of art. It is easy enough to draw parallels between fashion and self–fashioning when by "fashionable" we mean a type of costume and lifestyle that can become prestigious and popular for some period of time, which can be adopted and then abandoned in favour of a new one, thereby creating a certain public image for oneself. Early modern fashion is associated primarily with the court society. How could an official be fashionable when year after year he was dressed in a plain dark, usually black suit, which was appropriate for a townsman in the second half of the 17th century? This article explores how fashion and men's costume are represented in the diary of Samuel Pepys, a Navy official, who is called a man of fashion, and how, for him, costume could be a tool for shaping his identity.
求助全文
通过发布文献求助,成功后即可免费获取论文全文。 去求助
来源期刊
自引率
0.00%
发文量
0
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
确定
请完成安全验证×
copy
已复制链接
快去分享给好友吧!
我知道了
右上角分享
点击右上角分享
0
联系我们:info@booksci.cn Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。 Copyright © 2023 布克学术 All rights reserved.
京ICP备2023020795号-1
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术官方微信