3.近代早期欧洲的羽毛制作

Stefan Hanß
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摘要

这一章描绘了早期现代欧洲羽毛加工的未知历史,以及它与物质和制造世界的关系。重点关注1500年至1800年间安特卫普、布鲁塞尔、德累斯顿、莱比锡、伦敦、马德里、米兰、纽伦堡、巴黎、布拉格、斯图加特、都灵和威尼斯的羽毛工人的活动,我研究了这个基本上被遗忘的工艺的人员、生产、网络、材料、技术和产品。在这几个世纪的过程中,工匠们最初与羽毛的接触从一种制作文化发展到一种礼仪文化。我认为,这些欧洲工匠的物质参与形式产生了羽毛的情感氛围。羽毛加工工艺影响了美学的材料翻译,因为复杂技术的应用有助于表现羽毛的材料特性。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
3. Making Featherwork in Early Modern Europe
This chapter charts the unknown history of early modern European featherworking and its relationship with the world of matter and making. Focusing on featherworkers’ activities in Antwerp, Brussels, Dresden, Leipzig, London, Madrid, Milan, Nuremberg, Paris, Prague, Stuttgart, Turin, and Venice between 1500 and 1800, I study the people, production, networks, materials, techniques, and products of this largely forgotten craft. Over the course of these centuries, artisans developed their initial engagements with feathers from a culture of making to an entrepreneurial culture of decorum. These European artisans’ forms of material engagement, I argue, engendered feathers’ affective atmospheres. The craft of featherworking affected the material translation of aesthetics since the application of complex techniques helped to perform the material properties of feathers.
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