Award-winning papers in 2019

IF 1.1 Q3 ENGINEERING, CIVIL
I. Eames
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引用次数: 0

Abstract

The dynamics of waves and their interaction with a beach depends on whether the leading wave component is elevated or depressed. These differences are explained in this paper using a hydraulic model and the principle of conservation of impulse. Laboratory experiments of depression waves, conducted using a novel wavemaker, are compared with model predictions. Over a sloping beach, these waves have a nearly constant V-shaped depression trailed by a growing Λ-shaped positive wave. The shoreline recedes over a significant distance, caused by shoreward water being drawn into the V-shaped depression. When the trailing Λ-shaped positive wave breaks, an energetic hydraulic bore develops and moves up the beach. The hydraulic model leads to general formulae for wave slopes, draw-down and run-up. The run-up of negative waves can be larger or smaller than that of positive waves, depending on the wave amplitude and beach parameters. The predictions are compared with results from photographs of depression waves taken during the 2004 Sumatra tsunami. Similar phenomena occurred in Japan in 2011. By incorporating up/down amplitude data in new tsunami warning systems, the properties of tsunamis on beaches could be estimated in real time using the present work, thus improving emergency response strategies. In future, the damage associated with tsunami waves, depending on coastal parameters, could increase with rising sea levels, erosion and destruction of coral reefs, and the loss of Arctic sea-ice.
2019年获奖论文
波浪的动力学及其与海滩的相互作用取决于前波分量是升高还是下降。本文用水力模型和冲量守恒原理解释了这些差异。用一种新型造波器进行的实验室降压波实验与模型预测结果进行了比较。在倾斜的海滩上,这些波浪有一个几乎恒定的v形洼地,后面跟着一个越来越大的Λ-shaped正波。由于沿岸的水被吸进v形洼地,海岸线后退了一段相当长的距离。当后面的Λ-shaped正波破裂时,一个充满活力的水力钻孔形成并向上移动到海滩上。通过水力学模型推导出波浪斜率、落差和涨落的一般公式。负波的上升幅度可以比正波的上升幅度大,也可以比正波的上升幅度小,这取决于波浪幅度和海滩参数。这些预测与2004年苏门答腊海啸期间拍摄的低洼波照片的结果进行了比较。2011年,日本也出现了类似的现象。通过在新的海啸预警系统中纳入上下振幅数据,可以利用现有工作实时估计海滩海啸的特性,从而改进应急响应策略。未来,随着海平面上升、珊瑚礁的侵蚀和破坏以及北极海冰的消失,与海啸波相关的损害(取决于沿海参数)可能会增加。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.60
自引率
0.00%
发文量
8
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