Sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations made with essential oils of Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico) and Ocotea quixos (ishpingo)

Abstract

Introduction: Sensory analysis is a subjective method that evaluates a product through the use of human senses. In this case, the objective is to determine if the incorporation of essential oils in cosmetic formulas is perceived as pleasant based on a scale of preference of 9 points (hedonic scale) in which 9 indicates "like extremely" and 1 "dislike extremely". The sensorial attribute evaluated is "aroma", referring to the odors or essences that can be detected through olfaction (sense of smell). The essential oils used in these formulations are: Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico), Ocotea quixos (ishpingo). Bibliographic references have established the antioxidant properties of these oils making them interesting ingredients for cosmetic formulations with claims of anti-aging properties given their antioxidant potential. Methods: Two cosmetic forms are evaluated, creams and lotions, in which 0.4-6.6 and 0.8% of a mixture of oils are incorporated in 2 proportions, 20:80 (20% matico, 80% ishpingo) and 80:20 (80% matico, 20% ishpingo). A hedonic test was performed with a panel of 32 untrained consumers, based on a balanced experimental design in which each sample is presented in a different order, a monadic evaluation is performed one sample at a time, and the attribute "aroma" is evaluated in 3 different moments: T0, "aroma in container"; T1, "aroma on skin"; and T2,"aroma on skin after five minutes time". Results: The results are evaluated by means of an analysis of variance (ANOVA) and group differences were determined via Duncan tests. The results reflect statistical differences regarding the cosmetic in its lotion form, with the most preferred samples being those containing 0.4% of the essential oils, regardless of whether the proportion of matico-to-ishpingo is 20:80 or 80:20. Conclusion: Sensory analysis allows to identify the degree of acceptance of cosmetic products and thus guide research and development processes. With this in mind, although there is no significant differential in the perception of aroma at least in the cosmetic form of cream, there are significant differences in lotion form.