{"title":"Séquences d'évolution morphodynamique des barres intertidales d'une plage macrotidale : l'exemple d'Omaha beach (Normandie, France)","authors":"Alexis Stépanian, Franck Levoy","doi":"10.1016/S0399-1784(02)00004-X","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>The present paper deals with the morphodynamics of intertidal bars on <em>Omaha beach</em>, a macrotidal beach located along the Normandy coastline. During two years (defined here as medium-term time-scale), a monthly topographic monitoring has been conducted on this beach. An analysis of the morphological evolution of the ridge and runnel systems is performed and correlated to the forcing conditions (waves and tide) recorded on the lower foreshore. Our results allow to distinguish some morphodynamical evolution sequences with one stage of accretion and one stage of destruction of the bars. In order to discriminate these two stages, an energetic criterion is used. Accretion stages correspond to long periods of fair weather conditions (significant wave height, H<sub>s</sub> < 1m), when bars build up and migrate onshore with a rate under 0.4 m per day. On the opposite, destruction stages result from wave height increases during storms (H<sub>s</sub> > 1m). The destructive processes are modulated by tide level and pre-existing morphology. Our results show also a medium-term morphodynamic variability along the beach profile. Indeed, the upper beach bars are much more mobile than the lower beach ones. The drainage channel dynamic is also highlighted as a destabilizing factor which weakens the bar resistance to storm activity. Moreover, the construction and the evolution of intertidal bars correspond to short-term reorganisations of an intertidal sand volume which seems to be quite stable over a medium-term period.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":100980,"journal":{"name":"Oceanologica Acta","volume":"26 2","pages":"Pages 167-177"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0000,"publicationDate":"2003-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1016/S0399-1784(02)00004-X","citationCount":"15","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Oceanologica Acta","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S039917840200004X","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"","JCRName":"","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 15
Abstract
The present paper deals with the morphodynamics of intertidal bars on Omaha beach, a macrotidal beach located along the Normandy coastline. During two years (defined here as medium-term time-scale), a monthly topographic monitoring has been conducted on this beach. An analysis of the morphological evolution of the ridge and runnel systems is performed and correlated to the forcing conditions (waves and tide) recorded on the lower foreshore. Our results allow to distinguish some morphodynamical evolution sequences with one stage of accretion and one stage of destruction of the bars. In order to discriminate these two stages, an energetic criterion is used. Accretion stages correspond to long periods of fair weather conditions (significant wave height, Hs < 1m), when bars build up and migrate onshore with a rate under 0.4 m per day. On the opposite, destruction stages result from wave height increases during storms (Hs > 1m). The destructive processes are modulated by tide level and pre-existing morphology. Our results show also a medium-term morphodynamic variability along the beach profile. Indeed, the upper beach bars are much more mobile than the lower beach ones. The drainage channel dynamic is also highlighted as a destabilizing factor which weakens the bar resistance to storm activity. Moreover, the construction and the evolution of intertidal bars correspond to short-term reorganisations of an intertidal sand volume which seems to be quite stable over a medium-term period.