Séquences d'évolution morphodynamique des barres intertidales d'une plage macrotidale : l'exemple d'Omaha beach (Normandie, France)

Alexis Stépanian, Franck Levoy
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引用次数: 15

Abstract

The present paper deals with the morphodynamics of intertidal bars on Omaha beach, a macrotidal beach located along the Normandy coastline. During two years (defined here as medium-term time-scale), a monthly topographic monitoring has been conducted on this beach. An analysis of the morphological evolution of the ridge and runnel systems is performed and correlated to the forcing conditions (waves and tide) recorded on the lower foreshore. Our results allow to distinguish some morphodynamical evolution sequences with one stage of accretion and one stage of destruction of the bars. In order to discriminate these two stages, an energetic criterion is used. Accretion stages correspond to long periods of fair weather conditions (significant wave height, Hs < 1m), when bars build up and migrate onshore with a rate under 0.4 m per day. On the opposite, destruction stages result from wave height increases during storms (Hs > 1m). The destructive processes are modulated by tide level and pre-existing morphology. Our results show also a medium-term morphodynamic variability along the beach profile. Indeed, the upper beach bars are much more mobile than the lower beach ones. The drainage channel dynamic is also highlighted as a destabilizing factor which weakens the bar resistance to storm activity. Moreover, the construction and the evolution of intertidal bars correspond to short-term reorganisations of an intertidal sand volume which seems to be quite stable over a medium-term period.

大潮滩潮间带形态动力学演化序列:以奥马哈海滩(法国诺曼底)为例
本文研究了位于诺曼底沿岸的大潮滩奥马哈海滩潮间带坝的形态动力学。在两年期间(此处定义为中期时间尺度),我们每月对该海滩进行一次地形监测。分析了海脊和流槽系统的形态演变,并将其与记录在较低前海岸的强迫条件(波浪和潮汐)相关联。我们的结果允许区分一些形态动力学演化序列,一个阶段的吸积和一个阶段的破坏的砂坝。为了区分这两个阶段,使用了一个能量判据。吸积阶段对应于长时间的良好天气条件(显著波高,Hs <当沙洲形成并以每天0.4米以下的速度向岸上迁移时,沙洲就会向岸上迁移。相反,破坏阶段是由风暴期间波浪高度的增加引起的(Hs >1米)。破坏过程受潮位和预先存在的形态的调节。我们的结果还显示了沿海滩剖面的中期形态动力学变异性。事实上,上海滩的沙洲比下海滩的沙洲更具流动性。排水渠道的动力也被强调为一个不稳定因素,它削弱了沙洲对风暴活动的抵抗力。此外,潮间带沙坝的构造和演变与潮间带沙量的短期重组相对应,潮间带沙量在中期似乎相当稳定。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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