Photoaging

W. Cunningham
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Abstract

Aging and photoaging of the skin are now well-accepted concepts, but formerly it was equivalent to heresy to propose that these were anything but natural events. Aging skin was to be accepted as an inevitable, irreversible, and trivial consequence of getting old. It became obvious early on that skin damage was an inevitable sequela of the medical use of x-rays; only in the past two to three decades has the extremely damaging nature of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) become increasingly clear to both scientists and the general population, and attempts to circumvent and reverse such damage have become extremely popular. These observations have coincided with several pertinent phenomena: (1) the incredible growth of scientific knowledge in recent years; (2) people in western populations living longer and spending increased leisure time exposed to sun in outdoor activities; and (3) the rampant cosmetic claims for products that will “turn back the clock” to youth overnight. In the midst of this chaos, there exist two opposing hemispheres. One is the northern hemisphere, where life is rigid, cold scientific proof is difficult, and only the hardiest survive in the frozen Tundras of pharmaceutical bureaucracy and governmental regulation. The southern hemisphere is friendly and warm and things that make you “feel” better are considered good, rather than inherently evil because they are not “natural” and may prevent us from looking our age. War has inevitably existed between these two spheres ever since south’s cosmetics were defined as bad and the north’s pharmaceuticals were defined as good. Advocacy of the term cosmeceutical, as an attempt to compromise and
光老化
皮肤老化和光老化现在是被广泛接受的概念,但在以前,提出这些不是自然事件就相当于异端邪说。皮肤老化被认为是衰老不可避免的、不可逆转的、微不足道的结果。很明显,皮肤损伤是医学上使用x射线不可避免的后果;只是在过去的二三十年里,科学家和普通大众才越来越清楚地认识到紫外线辐射(UVR)极具破坏性的本质,而规避和扭转这种损害的尝试也变得非常流行。这些观察结果与以下几个相关现象不谋而合:(1)近年来科学知识的惊人增长;(2)西方人群寿命延长,户外活动中暴露在阳光下的闲暇时间增加;(3)流行的化妆品声称,这些产品可以在一夜之间“让时光倒流”,让人青春焕发。在这种混乱之中,存在着两个对立的半球。一个是北半球,那里的生命是僵硬的,寒冷的科学证明是困难的,只有最坚强的人才能在制药官僚主义和政府监管的冰冻苔原中生存下来。南半球是友好和温暖的,让你“感觉”更好的东西被认为是好的,而不是天生的邪恶,因为它们不“自然”,可能会让我们看起来不像我们的年龄。自从南方的化妆品被定义为坏的,北方的药品被定义为好的,战争就不可避免地存在于这两个领域之间。倡导“药妆”一词,作为一种妥协和尝试
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