Modélisation de la morphodynamique d'un profil de plage

Abstract

In order to study the wave impact on beach profile morphological changes, we have developed a numerical ‘deterministic’ model. We focus on the sensitivity analysis of various modelling approaches in order to explain their limitations. Validating the model with experimental measurements, we put forward the poor estimation of the bed sediment concentration given by classical formula. We propose a new parameterization relying on a Shields parameter based on the breaking-induced shear-stress.