ANALYSIS OF TRANSFER AND APPLICATION OF THE CONCEPTUAL DIMENSIONS OF THE HISTORICAL COSTUME FROM THE XIX CENTURY IN THE PRACTICE OF THE FASHION DESIGNERS OF WOMEN'S FASHION IN THE BEGINNING OF THE XXI CENTURY – YEAR 2004 (FALL-WINTER COLLECTIONS)

Marija Kertakova
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Abstract

Like any phenomenon and objectified human activity, the implication of the historical costume of the19th century in the fashion of the new century is not accidental, but has its roots and protoforms. That is why it isnecessary to examine these protoforms very briefly, and then to successfully explain what is happening on theirbasis. The framework in which the given study is placed has the following parameters – historically it concerns thefashion of the 19th century, taking into account the revolutionary influence of the French Bourgeois Revolution, thevisual expression of the fashionable French women's suit, as well as the male business English suit is taken intoaccount. On the other hand, the most significant and successful fashion collections are examined in terms ofapplying the implication and conceptual dimensions of the historical costume of the 19th century in the practice ofwomen's fashion designers at the beginning of the 21st century. The purpose of the study is most concentrated inshowing the transfer of the successful historical fashion decisions of the costume from the 19th century, which are„noticed again” in the fashion costume at the beginning and the first decade of the 21st century – specifically in thistext 2004, with the key terms of implication and conceptual dimensions of 19th and 21st century fashion costume inthe most successful designer collections. As a researcher, my attention is drawn to the potential contained in theimplication of fashion costume, which is increasingly penetrating the artistic culture of designing and producingfashion clothes and accessories. On the other hand, the wide consumption and strong influence of fashion on humanlife impose the need not only for a philosophical or sociological analysis of the new phenomena of culture, but alsofor a comprehensive and in-depth scientific-theoretical study of the implication in fashion, covered by postmodernistideas. The question arises: what are the reasons for individual achievements and finds of one era to be preserved andcarefully transferred to other eras, even at the risk of the re-contextualization of the image originally created andembodied in clothing. Today, no one wears historical costumes just to protect themselves from the elements. Thehistorical costume and the fashion and artistic trends it embodies make it an expensive museum piece. One learnsfrom the taste of the old masters of clothing, from the combination of fabrics, colors and ornaments, from the ideasthat the modern person (whether professional or ordinary consumer) can draw from the found cultural artifacts in thefield of children's, women's fashion or the men's business suit.
浅析19世纪历史服饰概念维度在21世纪初女装设计师实践中的转移与应用——2004年(秋冬系列)
就像任何现象和物化的人类活动一样,19世纪的历史服饰在新世纪的时尚中的蕴涵并非偶然,而是有其根源和原型的。这就是为什么有必要非常简单地研究这些原始形态,然后在它们的基础上成功地解释发生了什么。本研究的框架有以下几个参数:历史上,它涉及19世纪的时尚,考虑到法国资产阶级革命的革命影响,时尚法国女性西装的视觉表达,以及男性商务英语西装。另一方面,最重要和最成功的时装系列是通过将19世纪历史服装的含义和概念维度应用于21世纪初女性时装设计师的实践来研究的。本研究的目的主要集中在展示19世纪服装成功的历史时尚决策的转移,这些决策在21世纪初和第一个十年的时尚服装中被“再次注意”,特别是在2004年的这篇文章中,在最成功的设计师系列中,19世纪和21世纪的时尚服装的含义和概念维度的关键术语。作为一名研究人员,我的注意力被吸引到时尚服装的含义所包含的潜力,它越来越渗透到时尚服装和配饰的设计和生产的艺术文化中。另一方面,时尚的广泛消费和对人类生活的强烈影响,不仅需要对新的文化现象进行哲学或社会学分析,而且需要对后现代主义思想所涵盖的时尚含义进行全面而深入的科学理论研究。问题来了:为什么一个时代的个人成就和发现要被保存下来,并小心翼翼地转移到其他时代,即使冒着将最初创造和体现在服装上的形象重新语境化的风险。今天,没有人穿着历史服装只是为了保护自己免受这些元素的伤害。它所体现的历史服饰、时尚和艺术潮流使它成为一件昂贵的博物馆藏品。人们可以从服装大师的品味中学习,从面料、色彩和装饰的组合中学习,从现代人(无论是专业人士还是普通消费者)从发现的儿童、女性时尚或男性商务套装领域的文物中汲取的思想中学习。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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