Fragile skin: Benefit of cosmeceuticals based on Rhealba® oat plantlet in acne vulgaris

Abstract

Fragile skin is the state of unbalanced skin characterized by lower resistance to aggressions linked with impaired barrier function of skin. Acneic skin becomes fragile due to its own pathophysiological mechanism. Indeed, acneic skin differs from normal skin as it is subject to higher transepidermal water loss and lower stratum corneum hydration. Moreover, acne vulgaris is also characterized by alterations in the lipid content of sebum and an inflammation in the sebaceous gland. These alterations lead to hyperproliferation and to an increased desquamation of keratinocytes within sebaceous follicles. Thus, the accumulation of keratinocytes can block the pilosebaceous unit, preventing sebum drainage. This results in the formation of microcomedones, and further acne lesions. Changes of the pilo-sebaceous environment favour the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes ( P. Acnes ). P. acnes exerts several pro-inflammatory activities which trigger the innate immune system by activating toll-like receptor 2 and NLRP3-inflammasome, resulting in IL-1β secretion in human monocytes. Rhealba ® Oat Plantlets extract (Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique) has been reported to restore fragile skin, inhibit bacterial adhesion of P. Acnes , and to be capable of reducing inflammation and irritation in acne. Moreover, cosmeceuticals including Rhealba ® Oat Plantlets extract and hydro-compensating actives, which can be associated with anti-comedogenic agents (hydroxyl acids), may be usually used stand-alone or in addition to acne treatments in order to treat acne vulgaris.