The Traditional Romanian Blouse - from Peasants Clothing to Today’s Urban Closet

Mădălina Căpraru
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Abstract

 Abstract — An element of identity that reflects the local origin, the social and civil status, the economic power and ethnicity, the Romanian blouse called `ie` was the identity card of every Romanian woman. It was sewn in secret and it represented one of the most important elements of the traditional attire. While realizing one’s blouse, the woman knew that the outcome would not only talk about her origin and social standing, the blouse being also a representation of the wearer as a whole. By looking at the way a blouse was made, one would know if the girl was going to be a diligent, hard-working wife or a lazy one. So, no matter the financial prowess of one’s family, every household had to have handsewn festive clothing for both the men and women. Before the industrialization period, the entire process of crafting the clothes, including the blouse was placed in the intimacy of the household, but as the technology and industrialization advanced, the textile related practices ceased to be created only in the home and the people have started to change, simplify or give up entirely on the Romanian blouse. Given these changes, I have chosen to study the evolution of the Romanian blouse in the XXIst century. While studying the evolution of the Romanian blouse, I have encountered a group of people that recreate it today’s age by the authentic and traditional standards, as much as the technology and materials allow them to. To describe the people prom this group, I will use the term „rejuvenator”. In this article I will present not necessarily the evolution of the blouse, but the evolution of those involved in creating it. Once belonging to every peasant woman, the blouse, the authentic one, now belongs to a much narrower group of a different cultural, social and economic standing. The results emerged after analyzing a number of 16 in-depth interviews conducted with the „rejuventaors”. The analysis was conducted through a grounded theory methodologic perspective through the help
传统的罗马尼亚衬衫——从农民服装到今天的城市衣橱
摘要-被称为“ie”的罗马尼亚衬衫是反映当地起源、社会和公民地位、经济实力和种族的身份元素,是每个罗马尼亚妇女的身份证。它是秘密缝制的,它代表了传统服装中最重要的元素之一。在了解自己的衬衫时,这位女士知道,这件衬衫不仅会透露她的出身和社会地位,而且还能代表穿着者的整体形象。看一件衬衫的制作方式,就能知道这个女孩是一个勤奋、勤劳的妻子,还是一个懒惰的妻子。所以,无论一个家庭的经济实力如何,每个家庭都必须为男人和女人手工缝制节日服装。在工业化时期之前,包括衬衫在内的整个服装制作过程都是在家庭中进行的,但随着技术和工业化的进步,与纺织品相关的做法不再只在家中创造,人们开始改变,简化或完全放弃了罗马尼亚衬衫。鉴于这些变化,我选择研究21世纪罗马尼亚衬衫的演变。在研究罗马尼亚衬衫的演变过程中,我遇到了一群人,他们在技术和材料允许的情况下,尽可能地按照真实和传统的标准重现了今天的时代。为了描述这一群体,我将使用“返老还童”一词。在这篇文章中,我不一定会介绍衬衫的演变,而是那些参与创造它的人的演变。曾经属于每个农民妇女的衬衫,真正的衬衫,现在属于一个文化、社会和经济地位不同的更狭窄的群体。这一结果是在分析了对“重返社会者”进行的16次深度访谈后得出的。通过帮助,从扎根的理论方法论角度进行分析
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