Video Analysis of Technical and Tactical Behavior in Elite Climbers

Q3 Health Professions
Sport Mont Pub Date : 2023-06-01 DOI:10.26773/smj.230716
Theofano Kotidou, S. Nani, K. Papadimitriou, O. Matsouka
{"title":"Video Analysis of Technical and Tactical Behavior in Elite Climbers","authors":"Theofano Kotidou, S. Nani, K. Papadimitriou, O. Matsouka","doi":"10.26773/smj.230716","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Climbing performance is considered multifactorial and is characterized by the interaction of technical, tactical, physical, as well as psychological components. However only few studies have investigated these components in elite climbers. The present study aimed to identify elite athletes’ technical and tactical behavior regarding the following parameters: a) type of climbing handhold, b) type of climbing foothold and c) torso motion through video analysis. The sample consisted of the final competitions of IFSC Climbing World Cup Kranj (2019). In total, 543 actions were recorded through SportScout video-analysis program, taking into account the parameters a) type of climbing handhold, b) type of climbing foothold and c) torso motion. According to the results, and concerning handholds, it was observed that the majority of the participants selected to use Incuts / Mini-jugs, regardless of whether they performed the next movement with the left or the right hand. Concerning the footholds, it was found that participants mostly selected to use Big footholds regardless of whether they performed the next movement with the left or the right leg. Finally, regarding the correlation between Torso motion and Handholds and the correlation between Torso motion and Footholds, it was found that the majority of the climbers selected to perform movements without Torso twisting. Only the techniques of stepping with the right foot had a significant effect on the motion of the torso (Chi-Square=15.53, p<0.05).In conclusion, the selection of smaller and more difficult handholds and big footholds, as well as the climber’s trunk maintenance towards the wall are highly important performance elements in elite climbers.","PeriodicalId":22150,"journal":{"name":"Sport Mont","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0000,"publicationDate":"2023-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Sport Mont","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.26773/smj.230716","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q3","JCRName":"Health Professions","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0

Abstract

Climbing performance is considered multifactorial and is characterized by the interaction of technical, tactical, physical, as well as psychological components. However only few studies have investigated these components in elite climbers. The present study aimed to identify elite athletes’ technical and tactical behavior regarding the following parameters: a) type of climbing handhold, b) type of climbing foothold and c) torso motion through video analysis. The sample consisted of the final competitions of IFSC Climbing World Cup Kranj (2019). In total, 543 actions were recorded through SportScout video-analysis program, taking into account the parameters a) type of climbing handhold, b) type of climbing foothold and c) torso motion. According to the results, and concerning handholds, it was observed that the majority of the participants selected to use Incuts / Mini-jugs, regardless of whether they performed the next movement with the left or the right hand. Concerning the footholds, it was found that participants mostly selected to use Big footholds regardless of whether they performed the next movement with the left or the right leg. Finally, regarding the correlation between Torso motion and Handholds and the correlation between Torso motion and Footholds, it was found that the majority of the climbers selected to perform movements without Torso twisting. Only the techniques of stepping with the right foot had a significant effect on the motion of the torso (Chi-Square=15.53, p<0.05).In conclusion, the selection of smaller and more difficult handholds and big footholds, as well as the climber’s trunk maintenance towards the wall are highly important performance elements in elite climbers.
优秀攀岩运动员技战术行为录像分析
攀岩表现被认为是多因素的,其特点是技术、战术、身体和心理因素的相互作用。然而,只有少数研究调查了这些成分在优秀的登山者。本研究旨在通过视频分析,识别优秀运动员在以下参数上的技战术行为:a)攀爬手持类型,b)攀爬立足点类型和c)躯干运动。样本包括IFSC克兰吉攀岩世界杯(2019)的决赛。通过SportScout视频分析程序共记录了543个动作,考虑到参数a)攀爬手持类型,b)攀爬立足点类型和c)躯干运动。根据结果,关于手握,观察到大多数参与者选择使用Incuts / Mini-jugs,不管他们是用左手还是右手进行下一个动作。关于脚点,研究发现,参与者大多选择使用大脚点,无论他们是用左腿还是右腿进行下一个动作。最后,关于躯干运动与手持、躯干运动与足点的相关性,我们发现大多数攀岩者选择不进行躯干扭转的动作。只有右脚走路技术对躯干运动有显著影响(χ - square =15.53, p<0.05)。综上所述,选择更小更难的点和大的脚点,以及攀爬者的躯干对壁的维护是精英攀爬者非常重要的表现因素。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
求助全文
约1分钟内获得全文 求助全文
来源期刊
Sport Mont
Sport Mont Health Professions-Physical Therapy, Sports Therapy and Rehabilitation
CiteScore
1.30
自引率
0.00%
发文量
58
审稿时长
24 weeks
期刊介绍: SM covers all aspects of sports science and medicine; all clinical aspects of exercise, health, and sport; exercise physiology and biophysical investigation of sports performance; sport biomechanics; sports nutrition; rehabilitation, physiotherapy; sports psychology; sport pedagogy, sport history, sport philosophy, sport sociology, sport management; and all aspects of scientific support of the sports coaches from the natural, social and humanistic side.
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
确定
请完成安全验证×
copy
已复制链接
快去分享给好友吧!
我知道了
右上角分享
点击右上角分享
0
联系我们:info@booksci.cn Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。 Copyright © 2023 布克学术 All rights reserved.
京ICP备2023020795号-1
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术官方微信