Liquid Wardrobes and Sensing: A Phenomenological Approach to Digital Perfume Communities

Péter Virginás
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Abstract

Abstract The fact that perfumes have been regarded as enhancing one’s appearance opens up questions about knowing and wearing fragrances. The connections between fragrances and fashion are being reviewed first according to the notion of embodiment as applied to the understanding of clothing fashion (Entwistle 2000, 2015); then, the lens of “mediatization”, as applied by Rocamora (2017) to grasp the contemporary entanglement of fashion and digital media, further serves to turn to digital perfume communities. These constitute an essential resource to the extent that they share experiences while producing data about wearing and collecting fragrances. By tracing the recent insurgence of perfume criticism and by mapping certain techniques of entering into relation with fragrances through community members’ perfume reviews as well, the study argues that their idiosyncratic and often artistic language is countering the impersonal language of perfume advertising; ultimately, the study suggests unravelling perfume consumption patterns via an aesthetics of attention.
液体衣柜和传感:数字香水社区的现象学方法
香水被认为可以改善一个人的外表,这一事实开启了关于认识和使用香水的问题。香水和时尚之间的联系首先根据体现的概念进行审查,应用于服装时尚的理解(Entwistle 2000, 2015);然后,Rocamora(2017)运用“媒体化”的视角来把握时尚与数字媒体的当代纠缠,进一步转向数字香水社区。从某种程度上说,这些人是必不可少的资源,他们分享经验,同时产生有关佩戴和收集香水的数据。通过追踪最近香水评论的兴起,以及通过社区成员的香水评论来描绘与香水建立关系的某些技巧,该研究认为,他们独特的、往往是艺术的语言正在对抗香水广告的非人情味语言;最终,该研究建议通过注意力美学来解开香水的消费模式。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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