Futurism on the streets of London

IF 0.4 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
David Simonelli
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Abstract

Obvious evidence does not exist linking the Italian Futurists’ conception of men’s fashion in the 1910s and 1920s with the tastes of the Mod subculture in London of the 1950s and 1960s. Yet the aesthetic behind both Futurist fashion and the Mod subculture is strikingly similar and suggests that ideas on style and lifestyle can cross-pollinate each other across decades and countries, given the right circumstances. Both Futurists and Mods wanted to be, as Giacomo Balla put it in a 1913 manifesto, ‘Dynamic/Aggressive/Shocking/Energetic/Violent … [with] Pattern changes […] available by pneumatic dispatch; in this way anyone may change his clothes according to the needs of mood’. London’s Mod subculture came from a directly coincident desire to abandon traditional aesthetics and methods of expression in favour of a constant turnover. The Futurists promoted an artistic movement as a lifestyle, declared in manifestos and acted out in the streets and in politics and that bled into fashion as a manifestation of their ideas, worn literally on their sleeves. The Mods promoted a lifestyle as an art, acted out on the streets, with fashion as the manifestation of their individuality, brought down to the level of the tapering of their pants legs. In both cases, the expression of their lifestyle and values was consciously manifested in the clothes one wore on an everyday basis and connected through the talents of Italian tailors for quick, inexpensive alterations. The similarity suggests an association between Futurism and the Mod subculture, in the appeal of Italian men’s fashion to both groups and demonstrating that certain avant-garde ideals in western art had filtered to the level of the average person over the course of five decades.
伦敦街头的未来主义
没有明显的证据表明,20世纪10年代和20年代意大利未来主义者对男装的概念与20世纪50年代和60年代伦敦的“摩登亚文化”的品味有什么联系。然而,未来主义时尚和Mod亚文化背后的审美是惊人的相似,这表明,在合适的环境下,风格和生活方式的想法可以在几十年和国家之间相互传播。正如贾科莫·巴拉(Giacomo Balla)在1913年的宣言中所言,未来主义者和现代主义者都希望成为“动态的/激进的/令人震惊的/充满活力的/暴力的……[与]模式变化[…]可以通过气动派遣;这样,任何人都可以根据心情的需要更换衣服。”伦敦的Mod亚文化来源于一种直接的巧合,即放弃传统的美学和表达方式,支持不断的更新。未来主义者将艺术运动作为一种生活方式,在宣言中宣称,在街头和政治中表现出来,并将其渗透到时尚中,作为他们思想的体现,字面上穿在袖子上。摩登派将一种生活方式提升为一种艺术,在街头表演,将时尚作为他们个性的体现,将其降低到裤腿变细的水平。在这两种情况下,他们的生活方式和价值观的表达都有意识地体现在人们每天穿的衣服上,并通过意大利裁缝的才能进行快速、廉价的修改。这种相似性表明了未来主义和现代亚文化之间的联系,意大利男性时尚对这两个群体都有吸引力,并表明西方艺术中某些前卫的理想在50年的时间里已经渗透到普通人的水平。
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来源期刊
Fashion Style & Popular Culture
Fashion Style & Popular Culture HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.60
自引率
0.00%
发文量
53
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