The combination of natural dyes from jengkol POD waste (Archidendron jiringa) and liquid waste of gambier (Uncaria gambir Roxb) on coloring of cotton fabrics

Abstract

Natural colors for textile products are becoming a trend today as an alternative to reducing the usage of synthetic dyes. Jengkol pod waste is a useless resource and is disposed as waste as well as gambier liquid waste which is produced from the pressing process of the gambier leaves. Both of resources contain tannins, which can function as dyes. The use of these two resources as natural dyes is an effort that can increase added value. The research was aimed at color and see the quality of the colored cotton material using a combination of jengkol pod waste and gambier liquid waste. The research was conducted by extracting the dye of the jengkol pod waste and gambier liquid waste, and testing the application of the dye on cotton fabrics. Three types of mordants, namely Al2(SO4)3, CaO, and FeSO4 were used in the coloring process. A treatment without mordant (control) was carried out as a comparison. Cotton fabrics that had been dyed were tested for the quality of their coloring by testing the color coordinate, color strength, and colorfastness. The results indicated that each mordant gave a different color coordinate with brown color in the use of mordant CaO and mordant Al2(SO4)3, and greenish-grey color with mordant FeSO4. The highest color strength was obtained in the use of mordant FeSO4 with K/S value of 11.678. Treatment with mordant CaO was the best treatment for colorfastness of washing, acidic and alkaline perspiration, light, and rubbing with values of 4 to 5, 4 to 5, 3, 4, 4 to 5 respectively.