ANALYSIS OF TRANSFER AND APPLICATION OF THE CONCEPTUAL DIMENSIONS OF THE HISTORICAL COSTUME FROM THE XIX CENTURY IN THE PRACTICE OF THE FASHION DESIGNERS OF WOMEN'S FASHION IN THE BEGINNING OF THE XXI CENTURY – YEAR 2003 (SPRING-SUMMER COLLECTIONS)

Marija Kertakova
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Abstract

As a researcher, my attention is drawn to the fashion costume throughout the 19th century and its replicasthat we find in the fashion costume at the beginning of the 21st century. I am convinced that the issue of„implication” in fashion has not been considered from a scientific point of view, both by public consciousness (inthe specialized circles of fashion designers) and by the individual consumer. On one hand, the potential that containsthe implication in the fashion costume is increasingly penetrating the artistic culture of designing and producingfashion clothes and accessories. On the other hand, the wide consumption and strong influence of fashion on humanlife impose the need not only for a philosophical or sociological analysis of the new phenomena of culture, but alsofor a comprehensive and in-depth scientific-theoretical study of the implication in fashion covered by postmodernistideas. In the context of my work on the implication of 19th-century costume in fashion trends in 2003, I am alsoreminded of Ambrose Bierce's statement about fashion as „a despot whom clever people sneer at but obey”. And itseems to me that this subjugation (among other things) underlies the industrial production of fashion clothing today,as well as the implication of 19th century costume in contemporary fashion. Even the French philosopher PierreBoast admits that „many women have died as martyrs to the fashion that forced them to sacrifice modesty fornudity”. This bright and aphoristic thought very well illustrates the relevance of the topic of fashion in clothing. Itnot only has deep historical roots, it is not only a plastic or aesthetic phenomenon, but it is also a phenomenondeeply related to human health. With this example, I want to emphasize that the implications of fashion today have asignificant meaning for man. This is important to researchers because many of the fashion designers who worked inthe 20th century drew heavily from the fashions of generations long gone. In conclusion, I would like to remind youthat my aim was for my research of the phenomenon to follow the internal logic of the transfer of artistic (materialand spiritual) values during the researched period. The text seeks to organize and show the various ways and levelsat which the implication has manifested itself in fashion since the turn of the Millennium. The possible, boththeoretical and practical, ways in which contemporary artists working in the field of fashion benefit from theexperience gained before them in the field of costume in the 19th century are described and analyzed.
浅析19世纪历史服饰概念维度在21世纪初女装设计师实践中的转移与应用——2003年(春夏系列)
作为一名研究人员,我的注意力被吸引到整个19世纪的时装以及我们在21世纪初的时装中发现的时装复制品上。我确信,无论是公众意识(在时装设计师的专业圈子里)还是个人消费者,都没有从科学的角度考虑过时尚中的“寓意”问题。一方面,时装蕴涵的潜力正日益渗透到时装服饰设计和生产的艺术文化中。另一方面,时尚的广泛消费和对人类生活的强烈影响,不仅需要对新的文化现象进行哲学或社会学分析,而且需要对后现代主义思想所涵盖的时尚含义进行全面而深入的科学理论研究。在2003年我研究19世纪服装对时尚趋势的影响时,我也想起了安布罗斯·比尔斯(Ambrose Bierce)关于时尚的说法,他说时尚是“一个暴君,聪明人嘲笑他,但又服从他”。在我看来,这种征服(以及其他一些东西)是当今时尚服装工业生产的基础,也是19世纪服装在当代时尚中的含义。就连法国哲学家皮埃尔•布洛特(pierre自夸)也承认,“许多女性已经成为时尚的殉道者,因为时尚迫使她们牺牲谦虚来换取裸体”。这个明亮的警句很好地说明了服装时尚主题的相关性。它不仅有着深厚的历史根源,它不仅是一种整形或美学现象,而且也是一种与人类健康密切相关的现象。通过这个例子,我想强调的是,今天的时尚对人类有着重要的意义。这对研究人员来说很重要,因为20世纪的许多时装设计师都从很久以前的时装中汲取了大量的灵感。最后,我想提醒大家,我的目的是让我对这一现象的研究遵循研究期间艺术(物质和精神)价值转移的内在逻辑。本文试图组织和展示自千禧年以来,这种含义在时尚中表现出来的各种方式和层面。本书描述和分析了19世纪在服装领域获得经验的当代艺术家在时尚领域工作的可能的理论和实践方式。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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