Wave Transformation in a Multi-Bar Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Q4 Environmental Science

Archives of Hydroengineering and Environmental Mechanics Pub Date : 2016-06-01 DOI:10.1515/heem-2016-0002

Y. Lan, T. Hsu, R. Ostrowski, M. Szmytkiewicz

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引用次数: 3

Abstract

Abstract The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of wave transformation in the surf zone near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly induced by breaking. The main field data comprise wave heights and cross-shore bathymetric profiles.Wave transformation is modelled theoretically by two approaches, namely the IBW PAN phase-averaged wave transformation model and the approach based on the hydraulic jump model, developed by Hsu & Lai (2009) for hydrological situations encountered under the actual conditions of two field campaigns - in 1987 and 1996. Discrepancies between the measured data and the model results are discussed. In general, the model results are in good agreement with the in-situ observations. The comparison of the field data with the computational results concerns a part of the surf zone between about 5 m water depth and the first nearshore stable bar, where the depth amounts to ca. 1.2 m.

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多洲冲浪带的波浪变换:以波兰Lubiatowo为例

摘要本文介绍了波罗的海南部波兰Lubiatowo IBW PAN海岸研究站附近海浪带波浪变换的实地和理论研究结果。研究地点显示出多洲横岸剖面，这些剖面强烈地耗散了波浪能，主要是由破碎引起的。主要的野外资料包括浪高和跨岸水深剖面。波浪变换的理论建模采用两种方法，即IBW PAN相位平均波浪变换模型和Hsu & Lai(2009)针对1987年和1996年两次野外运动实际条件下遇到的水文情况开发的基于水力跳跃模型的方法。讨论了实测数据与模型结果之间的差异。总体而言，模型结果与现场观测结果吻合较好。野外资料与计算结果的比较涉及了水深约5 m至第一近岸稳定坝之间的部分冲浪带，深度约为1.2 m。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

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来源期刊

Archives of Hydroengineering and Environmental Mechanics Environmental Science-Water Science and Technology

CiteScore

1.30

自引率

0.00%

发文量

期刊介绍： Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics cover the broad area of disciplines related to hydro-engineering, including: hydrodynamics and hydraulics of inlands and sea waters, hydrology, hydroelasticity, ground-water hydraulics, water contamination, coastal engineering, geotechnical engineering, geomechanics, structural mechanics, etc. The main objective of Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics is to provide an up-to-date reference to the engineers and scientists engaged in the applications of mechanics to the analysis of various phenomena appearing in the natural environment.