Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Q4 Environmental Science
Grzegorz R. Cerkowniak, R. Ostrowski, M. Stella
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引用次数: 10

Abstract

Abstract The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.
波激泥沙运动超越冲浪带:以波兰Lubiatowo为例
摘要:本文介绍了在波罗的海南部波兰Lubiatowo的IBW PAN海岸研究站附近的一个天然砂质海岸的实地和理论调查结果。研究地点显示了多洲的跨海岸剖面,这些剖面主要通过破碎来强烈地消散波浪能量。主要的野外资料包括近海波浪参数和三个跨岸水深剖面。波浪诱发的近床速度和床切应力在理论上模拟了弱、中、强和极端风暴条件,以确定冲浪带向海边界不同位置的沉积物运动情况。本文讨论了闭合深度的概念,根据闭合深度的概念,可以用极端季节深水波参数确定海底变化的近海范围。
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来源期刊
Archives of Hydroengineering and Environmental Mechanics
Archives of Hydroengineering and Environmental Mechanics Environmental Science-Water Science and Technology
CiteScore
1.30
自引率
0.00%
发文量
4
期刊介绍: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics cover the broad area of disciplines related to hydro-engineering, including: hydrodynamics and hydraulics of inlands and sea waters, hydrology, hydroelasticity, ground-water hydraulics, water contamination, coastal engineering, geotechnical engineering, geomechanics, structural mechanics, etc. The main objective of Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics is to provide an up-to-date reference to the engineers and scientists engaged in the applications of mechanics to the analysis of various phenomena appearing in the natural environment.
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