Nearshore sandbar switching episodes and their relationship with coastal erosion at the Curonian Spit, Baltic Sea

IF 2.6 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY
Rasa Janušaitė , Darius Jarmalavičius , Donatas Pupienis , Gintautas Žilinskas , Laurynas Jukna
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引用次数: 2

Abstract

The longshore realignment of nearshore sandbars is a morphodynamic phenomenon of multiple sandbar systems that has been known about for several decades. However, it is unknown how switching-related nearshore changes influence the evolution of subaerial beaches. This study aims to define the relationship between sandbar switching episodes and the dynamic state of the beach-foredune system along the Curonian Spit coast (Baltic Sea) using decadal satellite-derived and beach profiling data. To define this connection, sandbar switching locations, sandbar cross-shore positions, shoreline positions, and sand volume changes in the beach-foredune system were assessed on interannual and storm-related time scales. Twenty-seven sandbar switching episodes were observed with an average duration of 14.3 months. Most of the switching episodes occurred at preferred locations, coinciding with breaking points of different shoreline orientations where oblique waves and longshore currents prevailed. Shoreline retreat at an average rate of –14.2 m was observed within most of the sandbar switching zones. During major storm events, the average rate of erosion within the sandbar switching zones was significantly higher than the rate outside them. On an interannual time scale, a moderate average rate of erosion was observed within the sandbar switching zones compared to a small accretion rate outside them. Additional case studies of coastal evolution within the switching zones indicated well-correlated rates of switching-determined outer sandbar positions, shoreline positions, and sand volume on the beach and foredune during the switching episodes. The results of this study could be important for the identification of erosional hot spots and coastal prediction.

波罗的海库尔斯沙嘴近岸沙洲转换事件及其与海岸侵蚀的关系
近岸沙洲的沿岸重新排列是几十年来已知的多个沙洲系统的形态动力学现象。然而,与转换相关的近岸变化如何影响陆上海滩的演变尚不清楚。本研究旨在利用十年卫星衍生和海滩剖面数据,确定Curonian Spit海岸(波罗的海)沙滩前沙丘系统的动态状态与沙洲转换事件之间的关系。为了确定这种联系,在年际和风暴相关的时间尺度上评估了海滩前沙丘系统中的沙洲转换位置、沙洲跨岸位置、海岸线位置和沙量变化。观察到27次沙洲转换事件,平均持续时间为14.3个月。大多数转换事件发生在首选位置,与倾斜波和沿岸流盛行的不同海岸线方向的断裂点重合。在大多数沙洲转换区内,观察到海岸线以平均-14.2米的速度后退。在重大风暴事件期间,沙洲转换区内的平均侵蚀率明显高于沙洲转换区外的侵蚀率。在年际时间尺度上,在沙洲转换带内观察到中等的平均侵蚀率,而在沙洲转换区外观察到较小的吸积率。对转换带内海岸演变的其他案例研究表明,在转换过程中,转换速率与确定的外部沙洲位置、海岸线位置以及海滩和前沙丘的沙量密切相关。这项研究的结果可能对识别侵蚀热点和海岸预测具有重要意义。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
Oceanologia
Oceanologia 地学-海洋学
CiteScore
5.30
自引率
6.90%
发文量
63
审稿时长
146 days
期刊介绍: Oceanologia is an international journal that publishes results of original research in the field of marine sciences with emphasis on the European seas.
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